Nicole Farhi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Sometimes, Nicole Farhi surrenders to the summery South of France, where she grew up. That's when her clothes get all floaty, feminine, and indistinct. At other times, the heart of a soixante-huitarde, a radical chick caught up in the intellectual ferment of Paris in the 1960's, beats in her breast. Fortunately, this was one of those moments, because it meant her Fall collection came on strong from the instant a sleeveless coat in black patent—worn layered over another coat, this one in black wool—marched out onto her catwalk. The look was completed by leggings and patent booties. Next, Farhi offered a camel jacket, sleeves to the elbow, with a box-pleated patent and cashmere skirt. The combination of sheen and softness—part maîtresse, part petit bourgeois—was odd but appealing. And the designer maintained the dialogue for a while, with a coat in that patent/cashmere combo (like an upscale flasher's mac), followed by a wrap coat in camel. A funnel-necked sack dress in dully gleaming black cloque kept the dressy fetish mood aloft.Then Farhi let a little Rei of moonshine into her collection, veering off into echoes of Kawakubo's avant-garderie. That explained the asymmetrical draping and bias cutting, which created strange volumes. The designer said she was looking for sculptural effects in her clothes (Frank Gehry's name came up), so there was clearly some rigorous thought at work. And it did pay off in the most rigorous pieces: a sleeveless dress in black macramé that begged to be worn at a brainiac cocktail party, another dress with the controlled chaos of black fringing going every which way. Farhi's clothes have never made a point of being glamorous, but here, she was truly mistress of her own brand of severe chic. The beaded tulle shift that closed the show glittered like dark stars.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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