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subscribe to style file blog via RSSNow Screening At Pitti: Gareth Pugh
January 13, 2011
Today in Florence, Gareth Pugh shows his new Fall ‘11 women’s collection as part of Pitti W. SHOWstudio alumna Ruth Hogben (who created the film Pugh screened with his collection last season, and also lensed the video with Mariacarla Boscono for Barneys.com and Givenchy) created a short to play alongside, inspired by “religious iconography and Florentine opulence.” Check it out below; we’ll be posting our coverage of the collection shortly.
tags: Gareth Pugh, Pitti, Ruth Hogben
Jil Sander Navy Heads Online
January 13, 2011
Here comes Navy—and orange and cerulean, too. Jil Sander Navy, the secondary collection from Raf Simons, previewed back in May and available now in JS stores, debuts its new Web site, JilSanderNavy.com, this afternoon. The site will spotlight the new, David Sims-shot campaign with Valerija Kelava and styled by Beat Bolliger (that’s an exclusive shot from it, left). The photos will run in spring magazine issues separately from the main Jil ads. (Those, incidentally, were shot by Willy Vanderperre, starring Daria Strokous.) A behind-the-scenes video directed by Sims will also screen on the new site. That should whet your appetite for the pieces. It’s convenient, then, that the site will be able to satisfy, too: Selections from the 200-piece collection will be available for purchase online for the very first time. Continue reading ›
tags: Beat Bolliger, David Sims, Jil Sander Navy, Raf Simons, Valerija Kelava
Zadig & Voltaire & Erin, Bergdorf’s Bets On Basics, A Lighter Shade Of Pale At Proenza, And More…
January 13, 2011
RVCA’s loss, Zadig & Voltaire’s gain? The French label has tapped Erin Wasson as its face for all of 2011—Spring and Fall—and will debut a capsule collection designed by the model later this year. [Elle U.K.]
Speaking of capsule collections, men can look forward to a new one, too: Bergdorf Goodman has commissioned Tim Hamilton to design a basics line for their men’s shop, consisting of, in the words of men’s fashion director Nickelson Wooster, “modern essentials: the perfect chino, the perfect V-neck sweater, the perfect polo.” [WWD]
Today on their Web site, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler debuted their ethereal new Spring 2011 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and starring Melissa Tammerijn and Julia Nobis. [Proenza Schouler]
The pregnant-model and -starlet boom continues: Devon Aoki is the latest to announce she’s expecting. (Psst—if you’re looking for a dress, DA, we’ve got a few suggestions right this way.) [Page Six]
And news to us: Madonna has her own tartan. [WSJ]
tags: Bergdorf Goodman, Devon Aoki, Erin Wasson, Julia Nobis, Madonna, Melissa Tammerijn, Proenza Schouler, Tim Hamilton, Willy Vanderperre, Zadig & Voltaire
At Pitti, Collaborations From Kimmel And Throup
January 13, 2011
Among the 1,000-plus exhibitors at the 79th edition of Pitti, which opened in Florence on Tuesday, were Adam Kimmel and Aitor Throup, two longtime Style.com favorites, both launching new collaborations with iconic heritage brands and both coming up trumps by creating gotta-have-it hybrids between past and future that will make next fall a better place to be.
Kimmel worked with Carhartt. (A first look from that collection is above.) In his case, that was a whole lotta history. The family-owned company has been dressing America’s working stiffs since 1889, which is the kind of durable blue-collar kudos that has ensured Carhartt’s coolness with skaters and snowboarders. In other words, Kimmel’s heroes when he was a kid. He himself got his first piece of Carhartt outerwear—synthetic duck, quilt lining, corduroy collar (they still make it)—when he was 10. His own take on the brand is, in fact, less a collaboration than a 29-piece Kimmel collection manufactured by Carhartt, so he is able, as he says, “to offer a product at an incredible price point” to an audience that may have craved his Italy-produced signature line without having the readies to buy it. That said, the Kimmel-Carhartt connection is umbilical. The designer has always been acutely sensitive to function in his clothes, and his silhouette has always been forgiving—he used to call it “an American cut,” as opposed to Euro skinny-minnie. Still, he’s trimmed some of the Carhartt bulk. The stiffness is gone, too. In fact, to wear these clothes is to love them. A worker’s jacket in an almost luminous indigo moleskin was softer than velvet. A substantial parka/jean jacket hybrid (2-in-1 pieces are a Kimmel signature) was much lighter on the body than on the hanger. Such user-friendliness will win hearts, minds, and dollars when Kimmel/Carhartt shows up at Barneys later in the year. (Barneys’ Jay Bell brokered the relationship, so the store has an exclusive.)
Barneys is also where you’ll find Aitor Throup’s latest collaboration with sportswear giant Umbro (above). Last year, he remodeled the English football team’s uniform for its ill-fated World Cup appearance in South Africa. Now, he’s revisiting ten iconic pieces from Umbro’s archives (for example, the jacket worn by manager Alf Ramsay in 1966, the year England won the Cup). Throup is obsessive in his research. There’s at least two years’ worth in this new venture (it’s actually called Archive Research Project), and there aren’t many designers who could match Throup’s understanding of the way an athlete’s body moves in clothing. He refers to it as “data informing design,” which, techspeak aside, produces garments that follow and flatter the human form as elegantly and effectively as the finest bespoke tailoring. Throup is quick to point out that when Umbro launched in 1924, footballers’ uniforms were tailor-made. In restoring the essence of that tradition, he’s guaranteeing that sportswear will never be the same.
tags: Adam Kimmel, Aitor Throup, Carhartt, Pitti Uomo, Umbro
What To Wear When You’re Expecting A Baby…And A Gold Statue, Too
January 13, 2011
The Golden Globes are this Sunday and the Oscars will be here in a flash, which means the red-carpet speculation has begun in earnest at Style.com’s offices. From what we’ve witnessed at our pre-fall appointments, the A-lister every designer is angling to dress seems to be Best Actress nom—and expectant mom—Natalie Portman. How else to account for the return of the empire waist, as seen on Valentino’s long and lacy black gown (left)? We can’t say for certain that Marion Cotillard, Jennifer Connelly, or Penélope Cruz will be showing off their baby bumps in the coming weeks, but if they do, body-skimming halter gowns from Derek Lam and Reem Acra are two flattering and comfortable options. On the other hand, a bit of flash is always welcome, and Peter Dundas’ neo-hippie number for Emilio Pucci would look great on a wild child with child—Kate Hudson, we’re talking to you.
Click for a slideshow, and let us know how you think expectant celebs should accessorize their bumps on the red carpet.
tags: Awards Season, Derek Lam, Emilio Pucci, Reem Acra, Style Hunter, Valentino
Louis Vuitton Calls On A Few Friends For Its Spring Jewelry Lookbook
January 12, 2011
The house of Vuitton has access to just about every supe it could want for its ad campaigns—the latest stars Freja Beha Erichsen, Raquel Zimmermann, and Kristen McMenamy, and last season’s roped Christy Turlington, Karen Elson, and Natalia Vodianova—but for its fashion jewelry lookbook for Spring, the brand skipped the seasoned pros and went for friends instead. An international hodge-podge of It girls lent their services to the sixties pin-up inspired shots, including Alexandra Richards (above right), Rinko Kikuchi, Annabelle Dexter-Jones, Sky Ferreira, and Nathalie Love. Of course, since these ladies are mostly part-time models, their full-time careers are listed, too—though, of course, they’re mainly of the It girl variety. There are actresses, TV announcers, DJs, singers, and even a “reporter and party girl,” but our favorite goes to Miss Mary Charteris (above left), modeling a pendant and necklace from the Cosmopolitan collection. Her job: “Aristocrat.”
tags: Alexandra Richards, Annabelle Dexter-Jones, Louis Vuitton, Mary Charteris, Nathalie Love, Rinko Kikuchi, Sky Ferreira
The White Shirt Is White Hot, The Foot To Book (If You Only Book One), And More…
January 12, 2011
With the men’s fashion weeks fast approaching, guys’ style is on the mind, and one piece in particular is capturing editors’ attentions: The basic white dress shirt. “Replace it often,” says The New York Times. Go ahead and buy seven, says Gilt Manual. We’ve been noticing lately that more than a few ladies are taking these hints, too. [NYT / Gilt Manual]
In an age of the famous brand ambassador, the movie-star campaign model, and yes, even Snooki, Women’s Wear Daily wonders, has fashion become more focused on the celebrities than the fashions? [WWD]
When they want a great face, casting directors and model bookers call Julia Saner. For total attitude? Valerija Kelava. And for the right foot… Christina Ambers (left)? W takes you inside the world of niche modeling: Meet the feet (and hands, and legs, and abs) that star in the ads and films we see every day. [W]
And congratulations to Lady Gaga, who, according to the accountants at Forbes, will make $100 million dollars this year. But, as Gawker rightly notes, that doesn’t take into account her presumably enormous clothing budget. [Gawker]
tags: Christina Ambers, Julia Saner, Lady Gaga, Valerija Kelava
Live From Florence: Trussardi 1911
January 12, 2011
Now streaming, live from Pitti Uomo in Florence: Trussardi 1911’s Fall 2011 menswear show. Check it out at 1 p.m. EST.
tags: Pitti Uomo, Trussardi 1911
Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Announces Its 2011 Grant Winners
January 12, 2011
Stick around at a fashion week after party long enough, and it becomes very clear: Wine fuels this business. But no vintner has been more influential than Ecco Domani, the winery that’s given generously to the industry, in the form of its Fashion Foundation awards, for a decade. This morning, Ecco Domani announced the 2011 winners of the $25,000 grants, which will help to fund their New York fashion week presentations. They are: For womenswear, Bibhu Mohapatra, Mandy Coon (a Spring 2011 Mandy Coon look is pictured, left), Marcia Patmos for M. Patmos, and Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker for The Lake & Stars; for menswear, Kyle Fitzgibbons for Native Son; for accessories, Pamela Love; and for sustainable design, Tara St. James for Study NY.
tags: Bibhu Mohapatra, M. Patmos, Mandy Coon, Native Son, Pamela Love, Study NY, The Lake & Stars
School Ties
January 12, 2011
For every fashion student toughing it out in the university, take hope: You may just find your future collaborator in the trenches. “We met in a college dorm,” Visionaire’s James Kaliardos said of meeting his magazine’s co-founders, Stephen Gan and Cecilia Dean (left), during their Parsons days. “Stephen needed my food card to eat back then in the cafeteria.” Twenty years later, the trio is still raising eyebrows with their evocative flagship publication and receiving accolades too; they took home the first ever Future of Fashion Award at the 45th Annual YMA FSF Geoffrey Beene National Awards dinner last night.
Despite a Northeast snowstorm warning, a bevy of Visionaire admirers and original supporters (including Diane von Furstenberg, Italo Zucchelli, and Milk Studios’ Mazdack Rassi) turned out anyway. “I feel like we’re the grandpa and grandma of the publication,” Isabel Toledo said of her and husband Ruben’s involvement. “We used to put together the issues in our kitchen and it was the second issue where I literally bound each magazine with thread.”
Needle and thread will always have their place in fashion (and maybe even in publishing), but the business proposals of last night’s newly-anointed Geoffrey Beene scholars, who took home $25,000 scholarships for their work, ranged from tech-oriented to Web 3.0. But if online offers instant gratification, print still has the potential for shelf life. “I have this edition of Visionaire that I kept from the nineties,” Calvin Klein’s Zucchelli said. “It’s about birth and religion and all these different visual ideas. It’s old now, but it’s still really special.”
tags: Cecilia Dean, Diane von Furstenberg, Geoffrey Beene, Italo Zucchelli, James Kaliardos, Mazdack Rassi, Stephen Gan, Visionaire
