“I can no more think of my own life without thinking of wine and wines and where they grew for me and why I drank them when I did and why I picked the grapes and where I opened the oldest procurable bottles, and all that, than I can remember living before I breathed.”
M. F. K. Fisher
I ordered “Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes” written by Maya Angelou from my Cook Book club as soon as it was available (and I had to wait for months because there were so many orders for it that they placed mine on backorder.). I had read her poetry long ago and was very excited when she read her poem, “On the Pulse of Morning,” at President Clinton’s first inauguration in 1993. Since that time I have come to know her as a friend and mentor to Oprah Winfrey. If there ever was a renaissance woman, her name is Maya Angelou. She’s been a singer, a dancer, an author, a poet, a college professor, and a cook. When she was on Oprah’s show to promote the book, she told a couple of the stories (smothered chicken and banana pudding) and Oprah had a near orgasmic look on her face the whole time.
Story
“Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes” is a series of twenty-eight stories from Maya Angelou’s life that revolve around food. They start when she was a young girl who, along with her older brother had been taken in by her grandmother and lame uncle. Her Momma (as they called her grandmother) was an enviable cook in their African-American part of a small Arkansas town who had pulled her own self up by her bootstraps after her husband abandoned her to raise two little boys on her own. The first story is actually one her Momma told them every time she made lemon meringue pie and tells of an old wrinkly woman who was fond of young men. She lured them in with her Sunday dinner of chicken and dumplings, lettuce and pea salad and fried summer squash followed by the tantalizing pie. She’d run through all the local men and was reduced to pouncing on strangers as they passed through town. She was finally outsmarted by a young man who had been warned by the locals. At the story’s conclusion, she sets out the recipes for the meal clearly, with plenty of room to jot down my own notes as I need.
There are six more stores from Maya’s Arkansan childhood and then she moves to San Francisco as a teenager with a baby. She reconnects with her mother who also nurtures her and her son, Guy. These are stories of having to make ends stretch until they meet and when they don’t, the ability to go back home without recriminations until she can get back on her feet. Of these seven stories, I think my favorite is how she got a job as a cook in a Creole restaurant with sheer chutzpah and a little stretching of the truth. After she got the job, she went to one of her mother’s friends who had once cooked in New Orleans. He told her that the secret of Creole cuisine was to add garlic, onion, green peppers, celery and tomatoes to every dish (and oh by the way, some spicy pepper flakes too.)
The next seven stories tell of her amazingly diverse life. From the Thanksgiving dinner in Tuscany with world leaders in the arts to a perfect onion tart with a group of acerbic artists in England to the tale of one of her writers' group members who treated them to a gourmet meal of Beef Wellington and all the trimmings by calling the renowned chef and food writer, Craig Claiborne claiming to be the wife of a Uruguayan ambassador whose staff had quit on the day of a state dinner. He provided step-by-step instructions over the phone all day and the dinner for the writers was a smashing success for this woman who ordinarily served herself and her son salad and take-out pizza every night.
The final seven stories are mostly from her personal experiences, cooking for her family and friends like Oprah, M.F.K. Fisher, and Ashford and Simpson, but the funniest story is about a woman who bought a cast iron cooking pot from the kitchen store that Maya frequented. The woman asked the shopkeeper about any special help in using the pot to cook a roast and while the woman was asking more about the roast than the pot, the proprietor of the store misunderstood and gave detailed instructions on how to season the cast iron pot in preparation for cooking. The poor woman ended up scouring her roast with a Brillo pad, among other atrocities, and then cooking this inedible piece of meat in a 120 degree oven overnight. She served it to her future in-laws who had no sense of humor.
Characters
Maya Angelou has known everyone from lodgers in a boarding house, to dignitaries like President Clinton in the White House and she carries it all off with aplomb, treating everyone with respect and consideration. The way she tells these stories, I felt as if I knew all of these characters, myself. Although her writing is clean and sparse, it also has the color of a poet and lacks nothing essential.
Setting
I traipsed along the dusty Arkansas roads, hovered around Momma’s store, smelled the hog butchering pit, and felt the damp grey fog of England. Maya Angelou is very conscious of time and place in her stories and I often felt like I could taste the chilled gazpacho or the succulent spareribs as she wrote about them. She has a marvelous ear and the words flow without any hesitation or tricky passages.
What I Like
I love the way she puts the recipes in context with the time and place as well as usually giving all the recipes for a meal. The book is ordered mostly by the chronology of her life and we see regional foods as she moves from place to place. There is a very comprehensive index listing recipes, main ingredients, and meal element alphabetically. The full color, full-page pictures are beautifully arranged and photographed. Finally, I love finding out about people and what they eat is as good a map as any in determining where they are at and where they’ve come from.
What I Don’t Like
“Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes” has twenty eight stories, seventy four recipes and only fifteen photographs. Even though Angelou’s words paint tasty pictures, I hungered for more photographs.
Final Recommendation
“Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes” is a beautiful life story of Maya Angelou told artistically, poetically, and tastefully. I recommend this book to anybody who wants to know about her, southern cooking, penny pinching, and celebrating life with food.
Book Details
Hardcover: 240 pages
Publisher: Random House; 1 edition (September 21, 2004)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1400062896
ISBN-13: 978-1400062898
Product Dimensions: 9.2 x 7.6 x 0.8 inches