MaxMara
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 24, 2011
By Tim Blanks
If MaxMara was claiming Britain's country life and all of its joys as inspiration for the collection it showed today, it was a vision radically distanced from its source material. This was tradition transformed by technology, every hint of rough rusticity smoothed away. The white wool duffel with the knit leggings that opened the show could have stepped off a space station. Almost everything that followed had the same sci-fi, slightly android quality, as if some fashion gene splicer from the future was trying to evoke the spirit of the past by injecting, for example, a kilt into a coat.The Highland references didn't stop there. The subtle shagginess of alpaca and mohair fabrications hinted, barely, at a wild frontier. Toward the show's end, the tartan paved with sequins was a concession to dressiness. The full-length coat-dress in a silvered plaid with a torrent of blanket fringing was one of the collection's more impressive pieces. But MaxMara's USP is smart urban style, and ultimately that was what was being communicated, whether by the kilt-belted camel jacket over leggings, by the parka and stirrup pants, or by the sharply belted coats in bonded leather. Anonymous, yes, but remarkably potent where it counts.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
- Gap
- T by Alexander Wang
- Talbots
- Elie Saab
- Louis Vuitton
- Miu Miu