Restaurant review | Still Worldly Eclectic Tapas

Descending into Still Worldly Eclectic Tapas on a Saturday evening, I felt as though I should have been wearing a beaded flapper dress and long strands of pearls.

The exposed brick, dark wood and low lighting give this restaurant in the basement of an old house in Olde Towne Portsmouth the secretive allure of a Prohibition-era speakeasy. There's even a small hatch in the front door, which would have been perfect for screening people before letting them inside to imbibe.

Still, true to its name derived from the word "distillery," offers an extensive collection of cocktails, spirits and beer (no bathtub gin, though) to complement its small plates with playful takes on comfort food, like tater tots ($5.50) encircled by thick, crisp strips of smoky bacon.

While I enjoyed a Moscow Mule ($7.50) - a strong concoction of vodka, lime juice and ginger beer - our friendly server explained that the Still menu is divided into four sections.

There are "foreshots," or appetizer-style tapas; "middle cuts," or heavier, entree-style tapas; "feints," or bread, soup and side dishes; and "angels share," or dessert.

Adding to the unique experience, the items you order are served as soon as they are ready - rather than as one main course. It's fun to try to guess what dish will come out of the kitchen next.

Despite this approach, my husband and I never had to wait long for our food.

First to arrive at our table were lollipops ($7.50), balls of scallop and jumbo lump crab mixed together and served on three skewers stuck into a halved lime. The 'pops looked adorable, but were a letdown as the seafood lacked salt and was overpowered by the heat of chili.

Up next were the fried pickled green tomatoes ($8). Beautifully arranged atop a bed of greens and drizzled with balsamic vinegar, these were much better with a creamy boursin cheese that softened the tang of the tomatoes.

Another nice complement, some chipotle strawberry jelly, turned the molten goat cheese covered in cashews ($8) into a delicious appetizer - though toasting, or at least warming, the accompanying baguette slices would have been a nice touch.

Our server promised that the duck tacos (two for $10) would be "life-changing," and it was hard to disagree. The shells overflowed with rich, moist and yet somehow not greasy nor gamey barbecued duck confit, enhanced by a savory pickled onion topping and chipotle aioli.

It would have been hard for anything to live up to those tacos, and indeed, the beef filet ($13) lacked that special something. The meat was fork-tender, but the potatoes mashed with white cheddar were ruined by sweet onion "hay" that was burned.

Also victims of overcooking were the soft cake doughnut holes rolled in cinnamon sugar ($6). Even dipping them in a chocolate-espresso sauce couldn't disguise their slightly charred taste.

Thankfully, we also ordered bread pudding ($5.50) drizzled with chocolate and dusted with powdered sugar. Soaked in a whiskey sauce that offset the pudding's sweetness, the dish was the perfect ending for a pleasant night underground.

Sonja Barisic, snbarisic@gmail.com