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May 2, 2013
Ever wonder where Sofia Coppola goes to relax, who cuts Natalie Portman’s hair, or where Lady Gaga gets her vintage treasures? How about Isabel Marant’s favorite spot for scrambled eggs? French Vogue contributor Carole Sabas divulges all this and more in two new books: Fashion Insiders’ Guide to Paris and Fashion Insiders’ Guide to New York, both of which hit stores on May 7. A Parisian living in New York, Sabas has previously published tomes detailing hotspots in Miami, Paris, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, but the 2013 editions offer updated, personal picks from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Viktor & Rolf, Gaia Repossi, Alexander Wang, and Yaz Bukey. Needless to say, fashion’s best-kept secrets—like under-the-radar eateries, flea markets, and late-night spots—are no more. Sabas’ useful, privileged info is accompanied by the illustrations of Caroline Andrieu (above, left) and Bernadette Pascua (above, right). However, in her Paris intro, the author warns that the books are not meant to be authoritative. “Sometimes the crowd in a restaurant will look more appealing than your food. And you may wonder why the tastemakers still come here season after season. Ask them and they’ll shrug: ‘The owner is crazy.’” But, she adds, when you follow the fashion set, “expect to be surprised, bewitched, puzzled, maybe disappointed at times, but always dazzled.”
Carole Sabas’ Fashion Insiders guides are available for pre-order now at Abramsbooks.com.
tags: Alexander Wang, Bernadette Pascua, Carole Sabas, Caroline Andrieu, Fashion Insiders' Guide to New York, Fashion Insiders' Guide to Paris, Gaia Repossi, Karl Lagerfeld, Lady Gaga, Natalie Portman, Sofia Coppola, Viktor & Rolf, Yaz Bukey
With Ambition To Dress 100 Million, Is Uniqlo The Retailer Of The Future?
May 2, 2013
Uniqlo recruits from fashion, but its aims are larger than fashion. That was the overriding message at this week’s presentation of its new self-designated category: LifeWear. “Yanai-san always says Uniqlo is not sportswear or casualwear,” said the company’s design director, Naoki Takizawa. “We have a function. This is clothing for a new category.” Yanai-san is Mr. Tadashi Yanai, founder of Uniqlo’s parent company, Fast Retailing, and his ambitions are global. No surprise that Uniqlo’s push into the U.S. and globally in the last few years will keep going strong. The label will open more stores here in the next year, as many as 20 in 2014 alone. “It’s a very interesting approach for me,” said Takizawa, who prior to joining Uniqlo was creative director at Issey Miyake. “Fashion is a segment. But Uniqlo is design for 100 million pieces, 100 million people.”
In observance of the fact that 100 million global customers won’t follow the same trends, Uniqlo is reorganizing itself to put function at the forefront. The U.S. may go in for a different look than Japan or elsewhere, but an American customer, like a Japanese one, wants to be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. She’ll appreciate the new breathable AIRism fabric (developed, according to the package, with “Toray Industries Inc.”) for the former, and Uniqlo’s successful Heattech, the product of eight years of development, for the latter. The company sees itself less as a design studio than a laboratory: developing new fibers and fabrics, competing not with other fashion companies so much as with its own past performance. “Uniqlo doesn’t need to change a lot every season,” Takizawa said. He likened its product development more to the incremental upgrades of the iPhone: first the 4, then the 5.
So for the present, Uniqlo will focus on nine categories, both established success stories (stretch denim, affordable cashmere, fleece) and new areas of interest and innovation (silk being key among them). You can expect to see and feel that change in Uniqlo stores come August. But all of this is not to say fashion is being discounted. Nicola Formichetti, who will continue in his role as the company’s creative fashion director even now that he’s been named Diesel’s creative director, styled the presentation of Fall looks to the editorial hilt. (Strong support was provided by Katsuya Kamo, the Japanese hairstylist and milliner who created the headpieces for the presentation; label brass made sure to note that he’s previously worked with Comme des Garçons and Chanel.) And Yuki Katsuta—the head of research and design, who arrived at Uniqlo via Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Ralph Lauren—continues to search for designers with whom to collaborate, and new ways in which to do so. He’s just coming off a partnership with his old Bergdorf’s colleague Michael Bastian for a new kind of capsule collection: one limited entirely to one category, the polo shirt. It’s been going gangbusters in Japan, and arrives at U.S. Uniqlo stores later this month.
tags: Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Chanel, Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, Katsuya Kamo, Michael Bastian, Naoki Takizawa, Ralph Lauren, Tadashi Yanai, Uniqlo, Yuki Katsuta
Coomi’s Ancient Accessories
May 2, 2013
“Anything I do tells a story,” says Coomi Bhasin, the designer behind the simultaneously luxe and brainy fine jewelry line, Coomi. Having launched in 2002, her previous collections have incorporated ancient Roman glass, or coins from the days of Alexander the Great. For fall, Bhasin’s one-of-a-kind rings, necklaces, and earrings combine diamonds, 20-karat gold, and arrowheads from the Paleolithic era. And the story she tells is one of evolution—both literal and artistic. “The skeleton is my favorite,” says Bhasin, referring to an arrowhead pendant she’s adorned with a gold and diamond iteration of Lucy—the oldest skeleton of human remains ever found on earth. “She’s very famous. And when her skeleton was found, there were some bones missing, so I recreated that,” offered Bhasin, adding that she’s embellished the back of the piece with three handprints, because handprints were “humans’ very first attempt at art.” Other highlights include arrowheads decorated with the skeleton of an ancient fish fossil, an interpretation of a bison cave drawing, and a deer running away from a slingshot—all done in diamonds, of course.
The collection will make its debut tomorrow during a luncheon at Christie’s. And Bhasin’s designs will be in good company—the event will also serve as an exclusive preview of the Impressionist and Modern masterpieces to be auctioned off at the auction house’s May 8th sale (think works from Matisse and Léger). “I’m a huge art collector, but what I wanted to show was that you don’t have to walk into Christie’s and only buy art for your wall,” said Bhasin, noting that she was honored to show her collection alongside Christie’s paintings. “The human body should be adorned with art, too. Your body is a temple. And it’s the best place to show off art.”
Coomi’s Fall 2013 collection ranges from $5,000 to $65,000 and will be available at Neiman Marcus.
tags: Christie's, Coomi, Coomi Bhasin, Fernand Leger, Matisse
FIT Unveils the Future of Fashion
May 2, 2013
Japan, horseback riding, and fear of the dentist were among the inspirations at FIT’s annual Future of Fashion show last night, where students of the graduating class of 2013 showed off their creations. Supported by a gift from Calvin Klein (an FIT alum, of course), the show was divided into several categories, including special occasion, sportswear, intimate apparel, knitwear, and children’s wear—which, thanks to a rambunctious mini model who moseyed down the runway with his tongue stuck out, was a particular crowd pleaser. “I was really blown away,” said Lisa Perry, who mentored designers in the sportswear category. She bestowed the Lisa Perry sportswear award upon Jae Lee (above, left). The winning designer sent out an oversize charcoal wool skirt suit garnished with electric orange PVC, and topped it off with a clever plastic visor. “He was incredibly creative,” Perry said of the graduate, who was inspired by yearbook images, which he etched into plastic. “And the quality was amazing. I was so proud!”
Other standouts included Jong Suk Park (above, right), whose chunky hooded knit look won second place in Cotton Inc.’s Best Use of Cotton contest, as well as Carly Rosenbrook’s structured white denim and PVC look, which took the Gary Graham sportswear prize, and Miguel Pena’s waxed cotton and leather separates, which received the Rag & Bone sportswear award. Visit FIT’s website to learn more about the many talents in the graduating class of 2013.
tags: Calvin Klein, Carly Rosenbrook, Fashion Institute of Technology, Future of Fashion Show, Gary Graham, Jong Suk Park, Lisa Perry, Miguel Pena
Intarsia-gram!
May 2, 2013
Who can resist a novelty sweater? Over the past few seasons, pullovers emblazoned with Givenchy’s snarling rottweilers and Kenzo’s tigers have become status symbols for the street-style set. Designers’ message for Fall: There is plenty more where those came from. Jeremy Scott and Raf Simons sent tongue-in-cheek intarsia knits down their runways, and Christopher Kane’s turtleneck depicting a healthy human brain electrified with ideas is destined to become a collector’s item. Others took a more classic approach. Sweaters inlaid with feminine floral motifs turned up at Billy Reid, Sister by Sibling, and Antonio Marras, while Victoria Beckham, Derek Lam, and Louise Goldin (left) stuck with graphic, geometric patterns.
Here, the best of Fall’s intarsia knits.
tags: Christopher Kane, Derek Lam, Givenchy, Jeremy Scott, Kenzo, Louise Goldin, Raf Simons, Victoria Beckham
From the Top: Milliner Rosie Boylan on the hats of Gatsby
May 1, 2013
“Hats are always important. Full stop,” said costume designer Catherine Martin when asked about the elaborate chapeaux featured in Baz Lurhmann’s The Great Gatsby. “I think that one of the things that defines the period is evening headwear. Hats enhance the characters, create an otherworldliness, and help the audience understand that we’re in a time other than our own.” In order to fully realize Gatsby’s sartorial Jazz Age fantasy, Martin enlisted Sydney-based milliner Rosie Boylan to create cloches, boaters, and beyond for Daisy and co. Boylan, who has worked with Martin and Lurhmann since making headpieces for Moulin Rouge in 2000, has been crafting hats for over thirty years. Here, she talks to Style.com about designing for Gatsby, pushing historical boundaries, and how to pull off a twenties topper.
Can you give us an idea of the range of hats we’ll see in The Great Gatsby?
There are about one thousand hats in the movie. Baz and Catherine love hats. For the men, there are a lot of boaters and caps and homburgs, which were a high-crowned men’s felt hat that was introduced by Prince Edward in the twenties. But we were primarily making women’s headwear. And that was mainly cloches and then the explosive party headwear that reflects the spirit of the Gatsby story. There were about 250 party headpieces, and we styled them to compliment each individual actor’s face. Every headpiece was made for a particular person.
How do the hats in Gatsby help improve our understanding of the characters?
When Catherine and I are working, it’s not only about making a period fashion statement. It’s about the character. I need to know what is happening and what they’re feeling and that helps me to create something that speaks to the storyline, the character, and the mood at that particular moment. Take Daisy, for example. She is always dressed in pale colors and she wears lots of soft floaty garments. Her headwear is very refined, highly crafted, very expensive, but always reflective of the fact that she is a delicate flower. I love the hat Carey Mulligan wears at the end of the film when she’s leaving town. She’s with Tom at the train station, it’s almost fall, and she’s got her felt hat on. It’s quite restrained but very beautiful and there’s lot of, I suppose, sadness. Continue reading ›
tags: Baz Luhrmann, Carey Mulligan, Catherine Martin, Elizabeth Debicki, Leonardo DiCaprio, Rosie Boylan, The Great Gatsby, Tobey Maguire
Going Green
May 1, 2013
Chloe Jade Green may be only twenty-two years old, but she’s already designed three footwear collections for her CJG range, which sells at Topshop—the high-street retailer that her father Sir Philip Green’s company Arcadia Group owns. Yesterday, at the store’s L.A. outpost, the British-born designer debuted her Spring ’13 shoes. Out this May, it will be her first collection sold stateside. According to Green, the range, which features her signature lime soles, is geared toward “the going-out girl [and] the girl who loves to wear a wedge in summer with a bikini.” In other words, young ladies prone to nights out at the latest hot spot. Including sneakers and gladiator-inspired designs, the thirteen-piece offering ranges from $190 to $350 and is heavy on geometric cutouts, lattice, and stud detailing, as well as wood, reptile, and raffia touches. Continue reading ›
tags: Chloe Jade Green, CJG, Sir Philip Green, Topshop
Ghesquière is Back on the Map
May 1, 2013
Or the cover, at least. The designer kept a low profile after departing Balenciaga in November (save his much-buzzed-about emergence in the twittersphere in December). But earlier this month, he was revealed as the star of System magazine’s debut issue, and today WWD reports that along with his muse Charlotte Gainsbourg, Ghesquière will cover the latest edition of German magazine 032c. “I may be putting myself in danger, but that’s what I want these days,” the designer told 032c when discussing his future plans—which are still unconfirmed but are rumored to involve an eponymous range. “I enjoyed years of extreme comfort at Balenciaga. It’s fantastic to harvest that status to explore in new ways, rather than sticking to a routine, even if it was the most comfortable and incredible, I couldn’t be in a better position.” 032c hits newsstands on Tuesday.
tags: 032c, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Surface Magazine
Jennifer Meyer Gets Personal
May 1, 2013
“I believe, by definition, that jewelry is a very personal thing,” Jennifer Meyer says. That sentiment is apparent in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up’s new collection of diamond-and-gold arrow and custom-engraved ID cuffs, which launches this week exclusively at Barneys. While accompanying husband Tobey Maguire to the Sydney set of The Great Gatsby last year, the designer was influenced by the statement baubles that star Carey Mulligan wore with her costumes. “There was an abundance of beautiful classic pieces with a touch of personalization,” she said. “You could tell a lot of thought went into the characters and what they wore.”
Meyer, who has been nominated for this year’s Swarovski Award for Accessory Design, describes the new range as classic with an edge. “I just started with a trillion diamonds and custom-cut stones,” the L.A.-based designer says of the wares, which reference the Chrysler Building. While remaining true to her West Coast roots, Meyer’s trajectory has been deliberate, developing her identity while still tending to her collection with a delicate hand. As for her future plans, she tells Style.com, “I am continuing to love working with custom-cut stones and adding bigger, bolder pieces into the collection.”
tags: Barneys, Carey Mulligan, CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Jennifer Meyer, Swarovski, The Great Gatsby, Tobey Maguire
Tony Talk
April 30, 2013
Chances are, Cyndi Lauper’s gonna have fun at the 2013 Tony Awards. Today, it was announced that the pop star’s musical, Kinky Boots, racked up a whopping thirteen nominations, Best Original Score and Best Musical among them. Matilda the Musical, however, is a close competitor, with twelve nominations, as is Pippin, which received ten nods.
On the costume front, Cyrano de Bergerac, The Nance, Golden Boy, and period drama The Heiress (which starred Jessica Chastain), were all nominated in the play category. Meanwhile, the best-dressed musicals include Kinky Boots, Matilda, Pippin, and Rodgers + Hammerstein’s Cinderella—the enchanted wares for which William Ivey Long designed. Style.com sat down with Long to discuss his fairy-tale looks back in January. Read our Q&A to learn the secrets behind Cinderella’s wardrobe, and tune in to CBS on June 9 to see who takes home top honors.
tags: Cyndi Lauper, Cyrano de Bergerac, Golden Boy, Jessica Chastain, Kinky Boots, Matilda the Musical, Pippin, Rodgers + Hammerstein's Cinderella, The Heiress, The Nance, Tony Awards, William Ivey Long
