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Frank Depaolo: A man and his soppressata |
It's just past 10 a.m., and Frank Depaolo is making mozzarella in a large metal bowl, as he's been doing for more than 30 years. With one gentle hand, he works cheese curds with what resembles a wooden frat-house paddle. The milk in those curds, from New York State cows, "is amazing at this time of year," Depaolo says. "They just switched from feeding on hay to fresh green grass. Now watch this!" He begins braiding the fresh cheese, and a few seconds later it's done, the greatest mozzarella to be found in any borough.
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