The Lechon Degustation: A Tribute to the Philippine Suckling Pig

There is much interest in Philippine cuisine in the world lately. One of the country’s most popular dishes is the lechon, or the slow-roasted suckling pig, usually served during fiestas or celebrations—from birthdays to weddings to noche buena’s. The pig, typically stuffed with anything from lemongrass to tamarind to garlic to onions and chives, is roasted on a bamboo spit for hours over a fire of open coals. When its flesh is moist and succulent, it is presented to the guests on a table to be "ooh"-ed and "aah"-ed before being cut, sliced and served right on the spot. This is the traditional way of eating the lechon. However, the Filipino favorite (also acknowledged by Anthony Bourdain as “the best pig ever,” on his No Reservations show) now has other ways to be enjoyed, through the form of the lechon degustation. Apart from being reinvented into other dishes,  servings are “plated” individually rather than the typical “family style” of eating.

Here are two of the more popular (and delicious) degustations in the Philippines devoted to the suckling pig. Coincidentally, both happen to be served at the owners’ home spaces.

Pepita’s Kitchen by Dedet Dela Fuente

If you Google “lechon degustation,” the first seven pages will all lead you to Dedet dela Fuente’s Pepita’s Kitchen. Known as the “lechon diva,” she has reinvented the suckling pig by stuffing them with rice—of all kinds—from fragrant truffle rice (French-inspired) to chorizo and crab fat paella (Spanish-inspired) to sticky rice, chestnuts, salted eggs, peanuts, Chinese sausages and pork cubes (Chinese-inspired). She has opened up her Makati home as a private dining space for her degustation dinners (PHP 3,448/ person for 13 courses) where she showcases inventive ways of presenting traditional Filipino dishes. Her version of the martini, invented by her elder daughter “Curly Pepita,” is cotton candy with a shot of dayap (a Philippine lime) and lambanog (rice wine). Crispy tendon chips are served with a dip made from sinigang na gabi (a version of the Filipino sour soup with the addition of taro).  The Filipino dessert of guinataan (sweet stew of root crops and fruits cooked in coconut milk)  is turned into a brulee made with milk from the carabao (Philippine water buffalo).

Her piece de resistance, however, is her lechon de leche, presented whole, and cut before the group by her daughter, “Little Pepita.” As the knife slices through, the crispiest skin crackles to make room for the fragrant rice to spill out. (If you want to see what this process looks-- and sounds like-- watch this 15-second video.)

In mid-March, she will be introducing the lechon scone—served with what Dedet calls Mrs. Thomas Butter, made from  Sarsa ni Mang Tomas (a sweet and tangy Filipino pork liver sauce), which she says “Filipinos will love!” at her new eight-course degustation called “Dinner at Tiffany’s.”

Phone +63 917 866-0662; visit their Facebook page: Lechon Degustacion at Pepita’s Kitchen or emailpepitaskitchen@gmail.com. Minimum group booking of 15 persons.  

Bale Dutung by Claude and Mary Ann Tayag

Husband and wife Claude and Mary Ann Tayag’s Bale Dutung or “Wooden House” has long been an established out-of-town dining destination. (Anthony Bourdain is one of their famous visitors.) Situated in Pampanga, a 1.5-hour drive from Manila, their spacious residence, aptly named because of the predominance of woodwork and sculptures (also made by Claude) offers an outside seating overlooking their garden and pond.

While Pepita’s main course is the lechon, the Tayags revolve the entire menu, “5 Ways Lechon” (PHP1,960/ person for 10 courses) around the suckling pig.  “We come from a big family who loves lechon, and we always have it at a party. Since Mary Ann does not eat paksiw na lechon [a stew made with chopped lechon, vinegar and seasonings], which was [then] the only way of recycling leftover lechon, she  challenged me to come up with other ways of doing it. I pulled and shredded the belly meat and fats and fried it and made the crispy flakes a topping for taco.” This is now listed on the menu as Lechon Tortilla—crispy roast pork flakes topped with fresh onions, tomatoes, or cilantro, meant to be eaten as a wrap.

Adds Claude, “I chopped the back bones and trotters, boiled them in sinigang of tamarind.” This became their Sinigang na Lechon—or pork meat in sour soup. “I deboned the head and turned it into sisig, with the roasted brain served on the side to those who want dinakdakan (the Ilocano version of grilled pig's ears). This is the Lechon Sisig on their menu—pig’s ears with onion and liver sauce.

Claude also grilled ribs with his homemade Claude ‘9 Inasal marinade, and served this with an eggplant salad and salted egg. This is listed on the menu as Inihaw na Tadyang na Lechon at Ensaladang Talong, or grilled pork ribs with eggplant salad. The fifth (or first) way, of course, is the simplest one—just having the crisp lechon skin served with the liver sauce. “What’s surprising with this menu is that despite its ‘porky’ nature, no one has ever complained about the oiliness from the pork due to the range of flavors each dish is made with—with the fat skimmed off. And there are lots of vegetable [courses] served throughout the meal.”

Villa Gloria Subdivision, Angeles City, Pampanga, Philippines. Phone +63 45 625 0169 or +63 2 668 4038; visit baledutung.com; or email reserve@baledutung.com. Bookings of groups of 12 are ideal but Claude and Mary  Ann Tayag can also accommodate smaller groups when available.