Vis
Vis is a historic and beautiful island, further from the mainland than other more famous islands such as Hvar, whilst still easy to reach. Its main town is also called Vis.
Understand
[edit]Through the years, Vis has been part of almost all the empires and civilisations in this part of the world - British, Venetian, Ottoman, Yugoslav, Italian, etc - due to its geographic position. Yugoslavia's most famous leader Tito was ordered to hide here by Churchill. Nowadays, it is a great getaway from the larger cities. As the most distant inhabited island, it is not as influenced by mass tourism, making it an ideal destination for relaxing and peaceful vacations.
Geography
[edit]Vis is 17 km (11 mi) long and 8 km (5.0 mi) wide, with an area of 90 km2 (35 sq mi). The highest peak of the island is Mount Hum with 587 m. It is the ninth largest Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea, southwest of Hvar, west of Korčula and northwest of Lastovo. Of all the inhabited Dalmatian islands, it is the farthest, about 45 km, from the Croatian coast, 50 km in a straight line from Split, and about 150 km from the Italian coast. Off-limits to foreigners from the end of World War II until the breakup of Yugoslavia, because it was a Yugoslav military base. Therefore it was, until recently, spared much of the destructive development typical of mass tourism elsewhere in the region. It is still less frequently visited by foreign tourists than other islands in the Adriatic.
Get in
[edit]By ferry and catamaran
[edit]The island can be reached 3 times a day off-season, and 4 times a day in-season by the Jadrolinija ferry from Split for €8.60 and Catamaran for €9.5, except on Tuesday when also catamaran from TP Line also accesses Vis. The crossing takes around 2 hr 15 min with ferry and about 1.5 hr with catamaran. You'll arrive at the port of Vis on the eastern side of the island in the center of City of Vis.
Get around
[edit]
On foot
[edit]Vis is a small coastal town, and you can easily walk everywhere, though some paths might not be fully wheelchair accessible.
By bus
[edit]Regular bus service connects Vis harbor to Komiža (15-20 minutes, 3,5 euros cash). The bus schedule is coordinated with the departure and arrival times of the ferry from the mainland. The bus leaves Vis a few minutes after the ferry's arrival, and departure from Komiža is typically one hour before the departure of the ferry from Vis. You can also travel to the western coastal town Komiža by bus.
By car
[edit]The island has good roads, an inheritance of its previous status as a military base. The main road goes all around the circumference of the island for a distance of about 30 km. As well, there is another major road cutting directly across the middle of the island.
There are rental services for cars, scooters, quads, and bikes. Prices are around €100 to rent a car for 4 hours, €50 to rent a scooter for 24 hours, and €20 to rent a bike for 24 hours (Aug 2023).
By taxi
[edit]Taxis are available in the downtown parking lots of the two main towns. English is sometime not spoken, so be prepared. A 10-km return ride during daytime costs about €40.
By boat
[edit]A number of companies organize boat excursions. Typically, tours leave in the morning around 09:00 or in keeping with weather conditions. Taxi boat service is more difficult to find and more expensive. Price may vary, from €10 for short trip around island to few hundred for whole day charter. For open-cabin boat type sailors have to pay about €200.
See
[edit]Beaches
[edit]The island has number plenty of well-maintained beaches. Note that these are rocky (or pebble) beaches, not sand. Most of them are quiet and peaceful even at the peak of the tourist season. In general, the seafront is not very developed and looks quite natural.
The town of Vis has a substantial beach of its own and also three textile-optional beaches, which are somewhat out of the way and require some clambering up and down rocky hillsides.
Stoncica Bay ison the island's northeastern shore about 6 km east of Vis. It is probably the most popular beach among young people, and it can get crowded during high season. It is perhaps the best beach on the island in terms of facilities, featuring a beach volleyball court, a restaurant, and a kiosk for beverages and ice cream
On the island's southeast coast, past the village of Milna and close to the village of Rukavac, lies Srebrena Beach or the Silver Beach, a stunning white-pebbled beach that certainly deserves a visit. In the inner part of the bay is the part of Srebrena Beach covered with pebbles. It is typically more crowded, while the rocky part outside the bay is just a short distance away and is certainly much more peaceful. It also includes a textile-free area. You can find bars and a restaurant within 10 minutes' walking distance of the beach, near the area where you have to park your car.
One of the most extraordinary and stunning inlets of the entire Adriatic is Stiniva Bay on the island's southern shore. The beach is not directly accessible by car, and you have to walk a difficult and steep path for about 30 minutes.
Nice beaches are also within easy walking distance of the town Komiža, most notably Kamenica Beach on the bay just to the south. A few meters away is the Acquarius bar that serves beverages (no food) during the daytime.
Continuing farther south from Kamenica Beach you will enter a clothing-optional area.
Just northwest of the center of Komiža is the town's main beach. There you can find many facilities, including a bar and a restaurant. Nearby is the diving center of the town. The beach is covered with pebbles and is typically rather crowded by local standards.
Do
[edit]Boat trips to the beautiful Blue Grotto and Green Grotto take place daily during the summer, with departures from both Vis and Komiža. The Blue Grotto is at the island of Biševo, 5 km southwest of Vis and about 4.5 nautical miles (8.3 km) from Komiža. The Blue Grotto is one of the best known natural beauty spots on the Adriatic and a popular destination because of the glowing blue light that appears between approximately 10:00 and 13:00.
Buy
[edit]One of the most popular items is local wine, particularly the renowned Vugava white wine and the robust Plavac Mali red wine, both of which capture the essence of the island's winemaking tradition. Additionally, consider bringing back olive oil, produced from the island's ancient olive groves, which is known for its rich flavor and quality. Other great options include lavender products, such as essential oils and sachets, made from locally grown lavender, and artisanal honey, reflecting the island's natural flora. Handcrafted ceramics and traditional Dalmatian lace are also wonderful mementos that showcase the island's cultural heritage.
Eat
[edit]Croatian cuisine on the island of Vis fetures dishes such as grilled octopus, fish stew (known locally as "gregada"), and black risotto made from cuttlefish ink. Traditional specialties include "pogača," a savory pie filled with salted fish and onions, and "peka," a slow-cooked dish of meat and vegetables prepared under a bell-shaped lid.
Budget
[edit]- Plaza (in the town of Komiža, near the hotel and the main beach). Pizzeria. The price for a meal was about €9.50. (2017)
Mid-Range
[edit]- Barba (in Komiža), ☏ +385 21713742. Nice restaurant with food cooked over a wood fire.
- 1 Dionis, Matije Gupca 1, ☏ +385 21 711 963, toll-free: +385 21 711 126, dionis@dionis.hr. serves great Italian and Dalmatian food at reasonable prices. Try the calamari risotto. main dishes €8-12.
- Kolderaj, Ante Starcevica 2. is a bakery at Vis harbor where you can get coffee and tea as well. It also features a sit-down restaurant on the waterfront with an Italian-inspired menu.
Splurge
[edit]- Kantun, 16, Biskupa Mihe Pusica, ☏ +385 91 371 1306. Very popular restaurant with the atmosphere of a fisherman's house. Very good for "occasions". Reservations required.
- Konoba Jastozera (in the town of Komiža), ☏ +385 91 543 6422. Everyday: 12:00-00:00; seasonal basis from 01.04. until 31.10.. Traditional cuisine and lobster house.
- Bako, 4, Gunduliceva (in the town of Komiža), ☏ +385 98 577994. Very cosy place. Food is quite good, prices are average. The terrace is quite nice, and very close to the sea.
Drink
[edit]Visitors can explore local vineyards and sample a variety of wines, with the indigenous Vugava white and the Plavac Mali red wine being standout favorites.
Sleep
[edit]Apartments are available in the town of Vis and Komiža, and in houses on the seafront. Prices are around €100 for a 1-bedroom apartment in high season. Camping is illegal but somewhat tolerated at few places.
Connect
[edit]Post office
[edit]The post office in Vis town (next to the town hall) works from 07:00 to 19:00 (in summer until 21:00), while the office in Komiža works from 08:00 to 13:00 and 19:00 to 21:00 (Saturdays only until 13:00). Stamps can also be purchased at newsstands.
Internet
[edit]Internet access can be found in Komiža in the town library, and in Vis town in caffee bars and bistros. The cost is around €5 per hour.