American Endurance Ride Conference

Endurance Rider's Handbook

2.01 Rev. 11/03

 

Chapter One

Introduction to the

American Endurance Ride Conference

 

The American Endurance Ride Conference was founded in 1972 as a national governing and record-keeping body for long distance horse riding. Over the years, it has developed a uniform set of rules and guidelines designed to provide a standardized format and strict veterinary controls. At the same time, it has striven to avoid the rigidity and complexity that characterize the rule books of many other equine organizations, and has in fact encouraged individualism in its members and diversity in its competitions.

Basically, rides sanctioned by the AERC must abide by the following simple rules:

1. The ride must be at least 50 miles in length per day. (A limited distance ride must be at least 25 miles in length per day.)

2. The horses must be under the control of veterinarians experienced with horses or endurance rides.

3. The ride must be open to any breed or type of horse or mule.

4. To compete in rides of 50 miles or longer, horses must be at least five years (60 months) old. Limited distance horses must be at least four years (48 months) old.

5. There is no minimum time limit for completion.

6. All riders who successfully complete the ride must receive an award. (Completion includes passing a post-ride vet exam where the horse must be judged fit to continue.)

 7. The winner is the rider and horse team who successfully completes the ride in the fastest time, provided the horse passes the final vet exam. In the limited distance ride, the winner is the horse that reaches pulse criteria first and passes the post ride vet exam.

 8. An award must be available for the horse judged to be in the Best Condition. (For limited distance rides, a Best Condition award may be available.)

 9. A junior rider is a rider under the age of 16 as of the first day of the competition season (December 1). All juniors must be accompanied by an adult throughout the ride. (Exception: when qualifications of 500 endurance miles are met on a rider 14-16 years old and a written letter of permission from parent/guardian and AERC, if the ride manager allows.)

 

Endurance rides have five divisions. There are four weight divisions for senior riders: Featherweight (up to 160 lbs.), Lightweight (161 to 185 lbs.), Middleweight (186 to 210 lbs.) and Heavyweight (211 lbs. and up). These weights include tack. The junior division is for children under 16. Riders earn points for year-end awards in their weight divisions. Individual rides usually provide awards for weight divisions as well as for overall placings, up to top ten. The Best Condition award is earned by the horse judged by the veterinary team to have finished in the best condition, based on a score which is derived from a combination of considerations, including riding time, weight carried, and physical state. Only the first ten horses to finish and ties are eligible for this award.

 

Endurance riding is a sport that has many levels of appeal. For some it is a highly competitive and challenging athletic endeavor. For others it is a recreational activity combining a camping trip with a trail ride. For yet others it involves a search to experience our American heritage, to discover the country as our forefathers once did—from the back of a horse. Because endurance riders recognize the prime importance of finishing the event on a sound and healthy horse, the motto of the association is “To finish is to win.”

 

Chapter Two

Attending a Ride: A General Overview

 

Throughout this book you will find detailed information about all aspects of endurance riding. This chapter will give a general overview of the format of a competition. It is specifically designed for someone who has never attended a ride and doesn’t know what to expect when he or she gets there.

 

Reduced to its most basic explanation, an endurance ride is a marathon for horses. It is run over a pre-marked, pre-measured trail. Although it is a race with awards based on the fastest riding times in the different divisions, many people compete not to race, but to finish within the maximum time allowed (12 hours for a 50 miler and 24 hours for a 100 miler). There are designated rest stops along the way, with veterinary examinations required at each one. In the course of a 50 mile ride there will usually be four checks (including the post-ride check), with roughly twice that number being common for a 100 mile ride. At the checks, the horse must show that he is able to safely continue, i.e., “fit to continue,” with that judgment being made on the basis of specific metabolic and mechanical recovery factors known to be significant. Among other things, the pulse must recover to a parameter set by the vets, typically 64 or 60 beats per minute, the horse must be metabolically stable, and the horse must be basically sound at the trot. The length of time allowed for the rest periods varies with the distance covered up to that point, weather, terrain, and other factors: most commonly it ranges from 15 minutes to one hour.

 

For endurance rides, the horse must pass a final inspection within one hour of finishing. In limited distance rides, the horse must meet pulse criteria within 30 minutes of arrival, and the final ride time is based on the time criteria is met. The horse must also pass a final vet inspection within one hour of meeting criteria. For both endurance and LD rides, recovery factors are based on the same approximate requirements as prior vet checks. In particular the horse must be judged “fit to continue.” The first ten horses are eligible to stand for Best Condition, which includes a final exam one hour after finishing. This award is designed to honor the horse that is in the fittest condition based on the judgment of the veterinarians, the riding time, and the weight carried.

Aside from the open rides of at least 50 miles, there are limited distance rides of 25 to 35 miles designed for beginners, less experienced horses, or riders who desire to ride shorter distances for a variety of reasons.

 

1. MAKING PLANS

A successful ride begins long before the competition, not only with proper conditioning of the horse, but also with planning and preparation for the trip. You should contact the management well in advance of the ride date and get an application with information about the ride. You can also check the online calendar for entry forms. You want to be sure it is still being scheduled, to find out if there are any special requirements, and to clarify the directions. Some rides have an entry limit or a preregistration deadline, and if you just show up you might not be allowed to enter.

Some states require you to have a health certificate and proof of a negative Coggins test; some require a brand registration. If you are stopped by the authorities and don’t have what you need, you will be fined and you might even have your horse and trailer impounded. Ride management also usually requires a negative Coggins test. Be sure your paperwork hasn’t expired. Health certificates are only good for a few days, and a Coggins is valid from six months to a year, depending on the state (usually they are good for a year). Your veterinarian can provide the health certificate and Coggins papers; brand registrations are provided by state authorities. Your horse doesn’t actually need a brand to get a brand registration, it’s just a document showing ownership of the horse. If your horse is registered, bring along a photocopy.

After you have your paperwork in order, start packing your truck and trailer. Refer to Appendix 1 to see what you will need. It’s a good idea to use a checklist to make sure you don’t forget something important. After a while you will probably organize all of your endurance ride gear in tack boxes and the like to make the packing and unpacking chores easier. Don’t forget to take along all of the things you need for your own comfort.

Trailering to the ride is covered in Chapter Seven. Give yourself ample time to get there, allowing for unforeseen problems such as flat tires and to allow your horse plenty of time settle in, eat and drink. There is considerable evidence that long trailer rides can be as stressful on the horse as competition so ample recovery time is very important. It helps considerably to arrive at the campsite well before dark.

 

II. PRE-RIDE ACTIVITIES AT CAMP

When you arrive, check in with ride management before parking your rig and setting up camp. It’s a real pain to finish unpacking everything only to be told you’ve parked in a restricted location and have to move. Be sensitive to the ecology of the area, especially if the camp is on public lands. Follow any “keep off” directions to the letter, and never tie your horse to a tree. Nothing seems to alienate a forest ranger faster than finding a tree damaged by a horse’s having chewed off the bark, or by long nails or screw eyes having been pounded deep into the trunk. Actions speak louder than words when it comes to showing the authorities that endurance riders are responsible custodians of the land and its resources.

 

Once you get set up and have your horse comfortable, check in with ride management. There will be a table or tent where you submit your application and pay your entry fee, if you haven’t already done so. You will pick up any ride materials there. On a “no frills” ride this could be nothing more than a vet card; if it is a big ride there could be a packet full of programs, free samples, maps, vet books, etc. Be sure to read over any printed ride rules you are given, as they could contain important changes from what you expected. Be sure you know where and when to bring your horse for the pre-ride check, and also the time and location of the rider’s meeting.

 

At most rides you can present your horse for the pre-ride exam as soon as the veterinarians get there. It’s a good idea to go early and get this over with, as there could be a long line later. If you do find a long wait and your horse is “antsy,” show some courtesy and keep him off to the side so he won’t be a problem or a hazard to the other horses. Don’t forget to bring your vet card or booklet. Your horse must be presented in hand, un-tacked. If the weather requires a blanket, you will be asked to remove it during the exam. Full details on what the vet looks for and how the exam is conducted are covered in Chapter Twelve.

 

Sometime during the afternoon it’s a good idea to saddle up and go for a short ride (a couple of miles is sufficient). This loosens the horse up after his trip, helps settle him into the camp routine, and gives you a look at the start and finish of the trail. If you’ve come very far, you should do this before the vet exam; the exercise will limber your horse up and reduce any filling in the legs that might have built up on the trailer ride. Another benefit of this excursion is that you will find out early if you brought all of the necessary tack and equipment. If not, you will still have time to borrow or purchase needed items. It will also force you to locate where you put everything, and have it all adjusted and ready to go well in advance of the starter’s whistle.

 

There will be some kind of pre-ride meeting, usually held the evening before the competition. Bring a chair, light, pen, paper, and something on which to write. Listen attentively and if there is anything you don’t understand, don’t hesitate to ask. Sometimes at the pre-ride briefing the management will ask first-time riders to stand up and introduce themselves. This is a nice way to say welcome, and serves to assure new people that everyone will be on the alert to help them out during the ride if they should need it.

 

The briefing usually covers the trail (and informs you of any special conditions or hazards); the number, type, and location of the vet checks (and the length of each leg of the ride in miles); vet check and crew procedures; vet check criteria; and any special rules or requirements. All of the vital information is supposed to be supplied in writing, but don’t count on it. Some rides give you little, if any, information in writing, and depend on the pre-ride meeting to cover it all. A misunderstanding here could result in your taking a wrong loop or getting lost. Pay particular attention to the way the trail is marked and to the vet check procedures. If you’re still unclear about anything, contact ride management after the meeting and ask for further information.

 

There is usually a central campfire built in the area where the briefing takes place, and if you have everything in order for the next day, you can enjoy a few hours of socializing before you go to bed. Don’t hesitate to pull up a chair, even if everyone there is a stranger. It won’t take long before you’re part of the group. Endurance riders love to rehash anecdotes, and they’re always happy to have a fresh ear to bend! Don’t stay up too late, however. It’s pretty hard to enjoy an endurance ride without having had a good night’s sleep.

 

III. RIDE DAY

Allow yourself plenty of time to tack up in the morning before the ride starts. Many rides begin before dawn, so you might have to get ready in the dark. If you’ve never done this before it can be quite an experience. Things look altogether different by flashlight, and feeling around for that errant piece of equipment isn’t likely to get your day off to a good start. If it’s getting down to time to go and you have to hurry to get ready, it’s all too easy to get a pad on crooked or to get a buckle in the wrong hole. Mistakes up here could cost you an accident.

 

You should begin warming up your horse about 20 to 30 minutes before the start. Just lead him around at a walk for a few minutes, then mount up and ride first at a walk and then at a trot. Alternate walking and trotting a few times, do a steady trot for a few minutes, and then keep walking until the start. That’s enough if you plan to do a slow ride (which, if you’re reading this chapter, is what you should be doing!). Experienced riders planning a fast ride will want to do a more thorough warm-up.

 

Inexperienced riders should avoid being in the front of the pack just before the start. The danger with being up front is that many horses, especially if they are green, can be unexpectedly difficult to control. If your normally quiet horse is magically transformed into a raving lunatic at the start of the ride, get out of the way and dismount. Horses as herd animals and prey will get an adrenaline rush when other horses are off and running. This leads to significant earlier and unnecessary expenditure of energy, so let the crowd get out of sight and wait until your horse gets a grip on himself. Then you can remount and proceed in a more dignified manner! Pacing the ride is covered in Chapter Ten, but at this point the main thing for you to remember is to take it slowly. If you trot the easy parts of the trail and walk the tougher ones, you will be able to finish within the maximum time allowed.

 

Always be on the alert for the trail markings, even when you’re riding back in a long line of horses—in fact, especially when you’re in a long line of horses. It’s not unusual for a group of riders to go miles out of the way because the rider in front missed a ribbon and everyone else just followed along.

Many kinds of ribbons are used. Because you listened closely at the rider’s meeting (you did listen, didn’t you?), you will know what to expect on the trail. You might be following surveyors’ ribbons hung from tree branches (when there are trees), or surveyors’ ribbons stuck on the ground (when there are not). The management might use limestone arrows on the ground to point the way, or put lime stripes across the trails you don’t take. Signs, permanent or temporary, might be used, such as paper plates with arrows, or U.S. Forest Service signs denoting official horse trails. Ribbons might be color coordinated for different loops of the trail (although some rides use up leftover ribbons and have all colors of the rainbow out there). Most rides try to put all the ribbons on the right side, except for when you are turning left. Many rides use three or more ribbons close together, or three ribbons tied on the same branch, to denote a turn. If you are unclear on any of the details of how the trail is marked, be sure to ask for a clarification before you begin.

 

It seems that getting lost happens most often in the first five miles, when people are bunched up and sometimes moving too fast (and when the rising sun sometimes gets in their eyes just at the crucial turn), or late in the ride when they are tired and not paying attention. If you do find yourself off the trail, turn around and go back to the last marker you saw and then go forward again looking carefully for the marker you missed. Don’t try to make up the lost time all at once; you will just tire out your horse and make matters worse. If you should become hopelessly lost, the best plan is to stay in one place and wait for someone to rescue you (see Chapter Nine).

 

One of the things that characterizes endurance riding is a high degree of sportsmanship, and that includes courtesy to other riders on the trail. Basically, the “golden rule” applies—treat others as you would like them to treat you. For example, if you are overtaken as you are riding along a narrow trail, ask if they want to pass. If they do, pull over to the side and allow them to pass safely. If you overtake another rider and plan to pass, always call ahead and let him or her know. A simple “passing on your left” works fine. If your horse has a tendency to kick if another horse runs up on him, put a red ribbon in his tail; if he bites, put a red ribbon in his mane. Then, try to cure him of that obnoxious (and dangerous) habit!

 

If you are riding with other riders and you come to a creek, try to let everyone have access to the water. Don’t drop your sponge right next to another horse’s muzzle. Most importantly, wait until all the horses are finished drinking before riding off. Many horses will not drink if their buddies are leaving them.

If you’re leading your group and you see a hazard, call a warning to the riders behind you. For example, “hole on the right” or “slick rock.” Of course, if you come upon a downed rider or a rider having some kind of problem, try to help out or ask if you can notify anyone at the next vet check.

As the ride progresses, try to estimate how far you’ve gone, and keep an eye on your time so you will have some idea of when you should be coming in to a vet check. When you see the check up ahead, slow to a walk as you approach the checkpoint so as to help your horse come down more rapidly to the pulse criteria.

Most vet checks are run as “gates” into a hold. This means that your hold time begins as soon as your horse is “down” to the pulse requirement; in other words, as soon as he passes the “gate” (see Chapter Eleven, Crewing, for details). Your mission is therefore to spend as little time as possible getting through the “gate,” and hence the suggestion that you should come into the check at a walk.

 

IV. AFTER THE RIDE

After you finish, remember that your horse must pass a post-ride vet exam before you qualify to complete the ride. Cool him out carefully, keeping him moving enough to prevent stiffness or cramping from setting in. If you have gone slowly, your horse will probably already be cool and dry when you arrive at the finish. If the ride allows you to get the completion exam done as soon as the pulse is down to criteria, you should do so. Don’t use any liniments or medications until after this exam. If your horse isn’t recovering as fast as you think he should, or if he looks as if he won’t recover by the deadline, don’t hesitate to ask someone for advice and help.

 

After the final exam, you can apply liniments or a body brace if you want (unless you are eligible for the Best Condition award, in which case you will have to wait until this exam is done). Blanket the horse if appropriate for the weather conditions, and in general try to make him comfortable. Provide him with plenty of hay, water, and free choice salt. Wait until after he has rested another hour or so before giving him his grain feeding (See Chapter Eleven, Crewing).

 

V. AWARDS PRESENTATION

Some rides provide a meal after the competition and most rides provide an awards meeting where awards are usually handed out at this time. When you check in ask what time the awards meeting will be as well as the rider’s meeting.

 

The number, quality and diversity of the awards will vary greatly from ride to ride, depending on the budget and size of the event, and to some extent on the whim of ride management. Everyone who successfully completes the ride will receive an award of some kind. Anything from a certificate to a silver belt buckle might be given, and items like flashlights, t-shirts, brushes, key chains, etc., are common. An award will be available for the horse judged to be in the best condition, and this is a highly coveted honor. Most rides provide awards for the first place winner overall, and some give top ten overall awards. Others provide awards based on the AERC weight divisions, and there will usually be junior awards. Sometimes, rides give recognition to various breeds, to the rider who came the greatest distance to attend, etc.

 

Even though you’ve taken good care of your horse throughout the day, you should not neglect to see to his needs periodically through the evening. Keep water, hay and salt at his disposal at all times, and if he is confined to a picket line, take the trouble to walk him for ten minutes or so at least a few times before you go to bed.

 

VI. PACK IT IN; PACK IT OUT

At a moment in our history when there is great competition for recreational trail use, it is very important that endurance riders act responsibly when using public land. Before you leave camp, be sure to clean up after yourself and your horse. Collect all your garbage, and if there is no disposal site, back home with you it goes. If posted and allowed, scatter piles of hay and manure. In short, leave the area at least as nice as you found it. If the park ranger should drop in while the ride is going on, be courteous and express your appreciation for being able to use the park. Rangers have many user groups to accommodate, and their authority must be respected. They are usually happy to work with you if you give them a chance, and very often they take real delight in seeing the area in their jurisdiction being appreciated and enjoyed.

 

VII. THE TRIP HOME

If you have a long trip home ahead of you after the ride, it’s best to camp over. The next morning both you and your horse will be rested and in a better frame of mind to face the drive. In the unlikely event that your horse has had any trouble during the ride, especially if he needed veterinary attention, it is foolhardy to leave camp the same day. Transporting an ill or exhausted horse often results in an intensification of the condition, and laminitis (founder) or colic is not an uncommon sequel to serious cases.

 

Be considerate of your horse on the trip home, making sure that he is neither too hot nor too cold. Give him periodic breaks (at least every four or five hours), and offer him water frequently (see Chapter Seven and Eleven). When you get home, unpack the rig and put everything away so you can find it again. Clean up the tack and clean out the trailer too. Putting off this chore will just make it more difficult and unpleasant when you finally get around to it. Turn your horse out for a few days of pasture rest before resuming conditioning. Then, start planning for the next ride!

 

VIII. PREVENTING TREATMENT BEFORE, DURING, AND AFTER THE RIDE

Endurance riding also has inherent risks for the horse and rider. Readers are encouraged to read Appendix 3 on Preventing Treatment, to carry a copy of the recommendations with them to rides, and to practice the recommendations.

 

Chapter Three

Selecting an Endurance Horse

 

Ask a dozen successful endurance riders what they look for in an endurance candidate and you will probably get a dozen different answers. Ask them how they found their star performers, and if they are truthful they will probably admit that it was just plain dumb luck. The scientific mind might well ask why this is so, given the fact that so much is known about the relation of form to function. Couldn’t a knowledgeable person just measure all the horse’s physical components for ideal proportions and angles, add it up and make the right choice?

 

Unfortunately, the problem is much more complicated than that, for regardless of how well the horse is put together, no matter how well he moves, and no matter how nicely the personality seems suited to endurance work, there is no way (short of testing at a university that specializes in such things, such as Kansas State), to anticipate how efficiently the metabolic system will respond to the rigors of the 100 mile endurance test. We can’t know in advance how well his heart will be able to pump; we can’t measure the way the lungs will respond; we can’t foretell the way the body chemistry will function.

 

I. Look at your options

Most people that decide to get in the sport of endurance are already horse people and have a horse. The best advice anyone can give you is: as long as your current horse has no physical disabilities, try getting them in condition enough for a slow 25 mile ride and use your own horse at your first endurance ride. You may find this is not the sport for you and have not invested a lot of money in order to make that decision. You may find you love this sport and your horse is very suitable and loves it too and you don’t have to be looking for a new horse. You may find you love the sport but the horse just isn’t the athlete you want to be riding and then you can start looking. It is much better on your first ride to be comfortable on a horse you are familiar with.

 

II. BREEDS

When it comes to breeds, it’s obvious that as a group Arabians do the best. On the other hand, individuals from any breed can excel in endurance, and not all Arabians are suitable candidates. Arabians are usually easier than other breeds to keep fit once they are in shape. In fact one is looking for a type of horse, not a breed, i.e., a sound, efficient mover with staying power. What does seem to be true is a higher percentage of Arabians are the right type than most other breeds.

 

III. AGE

The most preferred age of a prospect is 3-8 years. If you like to start with a horse who has never been ridden and are willing to spend the two years for basic equitation training then 3-4 is a good age, otherwise look for the 5-8 year old. A younger horse may take many years before you will have any idea whether or not he is suitable for the sport, and an older horse is fine if you are well aware of his history. (Endurance horses often perform competitively well into their late teens.) This history should include regular exercise, preferably trail riding. It will normally take two to three years to have the horse in top fitness if they have not been exercised a lot before your purchase but while you are conditioning you may enter many endurance rides on horses that are this age when you purchase them, provided you have the self-restraint to ride these early rides as conditioning rides and not races. Many a good prospect has been ruined by racing too soon Remember, if your horse obviously has shown you that he is not a good endurance horse prospect, there are many others out there that will fill the bill.

 

IV. SIZE

There is no ideal size for an endurance horse. Ponies can do very well, as can horses of 16 hands or so. Many good endurance horses are between 14 and 15 hands. The size of the horse should be appropriate for the size of the rider, however. No one could expect a pony to be competitive carrying a 200 pound man. Small, lightweight riders obviously have an advantage in that they have a greater range of sizes from which to choose. (As a rule, the horse can carry up to 30% of his body weight, depending on his bone size, i.e., a 900 pound horse should be able to carry approximately 250 pounds on his back.)

 

V. ENVIRONMENT

The environment in which a horse is raised can have a significant impact on his future performance. An endurance horse should have grown up in a situation that allows him to express his equine nature. In other words, it is good for the horse to have grown up with plenty of room to play with others of his kind. He should have had plenty of good grass and hay from which to choose, but not have been overfed. He should have been allowed to defend himself against the elements and otherwise to have developed in a way that has prepared him to cope with hardship and discomfort. This is not the same thing as having grown up neglected in somebody’s back lot, or in an overgrazed field, with no attention to regular deworming and hoof care. Not only is growing up naturally with plenty of room to run around good for the horse’s mental well-being, it also aids the development of strong ligaments, tendons, and bones without overstressing the horse.

 

VI. MEDICAL HISTORY

When selecting an endurance prospect, it is very helpful to know his medical history. Has he been wormed regularly? Has he ever had any serious injuries? Has he ever had any mysterious bouts with colic? Has he ever had any respiratory infections? Such problems might be caused by, or be the result of, internal abnormalities that could affect future performance.

 

VII. CONFORMATION

A horse with a great metabolic system will be able to excel in endurance, at least for a while, even if his conformation is faulty. On the other hand, perfect conformation will never be able to make up for a poor metabolic system. Nevertheless, if the horse is going to remain sound for very long he will have to be well put together, and the higher your competitive goals, the more important correct conformation becomes. Although space does not permit a thorough discussion of all aspects of conformation, there are some points that need to be made.

 

If good conformation could be summed up in one word, that word would probably be balance. The horse should give the impression that all of his parts fit together smoothly and in proportion to each other. A moderately long neck with a nice shape might help the horse to carry himself in a more balanced way, at least to some extent, but by and large the head and neck are important more from an esthetic point of view than from a functional one. A deep heart girth is traditionally thought to indicate large heart and lung capacity. Hindquarters should be large in proportion to the rest of the body, and should give the impression of strength even in the unconditioned individual. The back should be shaped in such a way as to enable it to hold a saddle comfortably. An extremely long back tends to be weak and prone to soreness. The bony structure should be sturdy, perhaps even somewhat coarse. The muscles should not be thick or bulging. We are looking for a marathon runner, not a weightlifter, and the body build should reflect that. On the other hand, some of the best 100 mile horses have typically been more heavily muscled than many Arabians. Like ultra-marathoners in humans as compared to other distance runners, 100 mile horses may need more substance to get them through the last half of a ride.

 

The feet of the endurance horse are very important. The walls should be dense and thick, with a smooth, waxy surface rather than a ridged, split or chalky one. Even in a foot that has been neglected, there should be no significant splitting and cracking. Viewed from the front, with the foot still on the ground, look for a foot that is shaped like a cow bell (gradually getting wider from the coronary band to the ground). In addition, there should be no dishes, flares, etc. The heels should be wide apart, and the frog should be prominent and rubbery. Viewed from the bottom, the hoof should be slightly longer than it is wide. A sunken frog and contracted heels might be indicative of a serious problem, such as navicular disease, or might only mean that the farrier has been doing some bad shoeing for a prolonged period of time. How the horse moves, the size and shape of the hoof, and the angle of the pastern might provide further clues about the seriousness of the condition.

A symmetrically shaped foot is necessary for the leg column to operate correctly. Such a foot reflects that the horse is landing evenly, as he should, over the center of that structure. This in turn means that with every stride the impact is being taken up through the middle of the leg column rather than off to one side or the other. Over a period of time, uneven impact is extremely destructive to joints, ligaments and tendons. A symmetrical foot means one that is bisected by the frog, with each half being a mirror image of the other.

 

Finally, size is an important consideration when judging the endurance foot. A disproportionately small foot is a disadvantage because the weight carrying area will not be as adequate for handling the concussion.

 

Scanning the conformation of the forehand, you should look for a big shoulder, a long forearm and a short cannon. The knee and ankle should be large and bony, without mushiness or filling. The knees should face clearly forward, not be put on the leg column with an outward or inward twist. Viewed from the front of the horse a vertical line dropped from the top of the center of the forearm should pass through the center of the knee, ankle and pastern, and end up at the center of the toe. Knees that turn either in or out are likely to cause some degree of uneven breakover and faulty flight path of the legs. Ankles present the same problem if they are crooked. Base narrow or base wide legs are structurally faulty. Offset knees are fairly common in Arabians, but they usually do not pose too great a problem, especially if the condition is not extreme. Calf knees are also common in Arabians, and this, unfortunately, is more likely to cause trouble somewhere down the road. Similarly, a horse that is “tied in” below the knee is more subject to unsoundness.

 

Good pasterns are important and the ideal ones are medium in length and have the same angle as the hoof (this is known as an unbroken hoof/pastern axis). Pasterns that are extremely sloping place an undue amount of pressure on the supporting superficial flexor tendon and suspensory apparatus. On the other side of the coin, a steep, upright pastern usually produces a jarring effect on the legs and feet (especially if the other joint angles don’t help compensate).

The master principle to keep in mind when considering conformation is that the front legs act as support columns and must absorb, with as little trauma as possible, the impact of landing. Like any support columns, they are only as strong as their weakest part. Imperfections that would never be a problem to the soundness of a show horse might be disastrous to the endurance horse—you have to be picky if you want a good one.

 

Moving to the hindquarters, you should keep in mind that the primary function here is to propel rather than to support. Good size relative to the rest of the body is very important. Viewed from the side, hocks should be wide and set on the leg fairly low. Sickle hocks predispose the horse to injury because of the excessive strain they place on the back of the legs. Cow hocks, unless they are so extreme that they cause the horse to hit his ankles, are not really a problem.

Assuming that the horse has passed the standing inspection, the next step is to see how he moves. The trot is the most important gait to consider. If there are any breakover problems, this is where they will show up. The way the horse stands and the shape of the foot should have already given you some good clues as to the flight path that the leg will follow, but watching the actual movement will provide the proof.

 

What you hope to see is that the foot breaks over at the center of the toe as it leaves the ground. The leg should then follow through with a straight flight path, with the hoof hitting the ground evenly over its center. Horses with irregularities in their way of going, such as winging in or out, crossing over, etc., have a lot of wasted movement. Furthermore, they are likely to impact the ground to the side of the hoof, causing strain to the leg. If deviations in the flight pattern are extreme, they might even result in one limb striking the other. Watching the flight of the hind limbs, the main concern is that the horse travels widely enough so that he does not interfere with his other hind leg and does not overreach and grab either of his front legs. While it is true that a number of successful endurance horses interfere, you must realize that this problem will be a difficult one with which to contend.

 

Looking at the horse from the side as he moves, you want to see a long, low, forward sweeping stride: high knee and hock action are a waste of energy. The horse should look free and loose in his shoulders and hips, like a gunslinger, and he should have a good overstride at the walk. Short, tight strides will get you nowhere, and will work you and the horse both to death. An average stride is acceptable if the breakover is correct, but a really big, powerful, floating trot that covers a lot of ground with effortlessness is a thrill to ride.

 

VIII. PERSONALITY

If the horse trots out in hand to your satisfaction, the next move is to take him for a spin, and this is where matters of personal preference take over. Due to the tremendous amount of time you will be spending with your endurance horse, it is imperative that you like his personality as well as his mechanical and metabolic make-up. If you don’t enjoy riding him, whether he is gifted or not, the partnership is never going to gel.

 

Some people like a relaxed, laid-back sort of fellow, while others prefer one that is more “ready.” Most endurance riders don’t consider a lazy horse much fun to ride, but on the other hand, a very tense horse that is on the borderline of being out of control, even in a nonthreatening situation, is likely to come unglued in a real race. Many beginners think that an uncontrollable horse is one that just “loves to run.” Nothing could be farther from the truth. The best horses are generally self-possessed and businesslike about their work. They can concentrate on the job at hand and, when they are well trained, will usually leave the rider with little to do but steer and otherwise stay out of the way.

 

IX. PRE-PURCHASE EXAM

After riding the horse, if you are in love and know you can’t live without him, the next move is to get the veterinarian to check him over. Be sure he understands how you intend to use the horse. Ideally, the vet should be familiar with endurance riding and the demands that it involves. Usually one with a lot of practical field experience will be able to give you better advice than a team of experts from a research facility.

Happy hunting and good luck!

 

 

Chapter Four

Feeding the Distance Horse

 

Although feed manufacturers would like to convince you that top performance is only obtainable through buying another bucket, many a champion endurance horse has competed successfully for years on nothing more than good pasture, water, salt and a little grain. There are very few absolutes in nutrition and infinite ways to adjust a program to meet individual preferences and needs. Use this section and its suggestions as a guideline, not a rulebook.

 

I. Feeding for Training

Which fuel the body uses for work varies, based upon the intensity and duration of exercise demands. The short, intense bursts of (anaerobic) speed seen in quarterhorse racing, for example, utilizes almost exclusively carbohydrates (sugars) stored within the muscles and liver. Endurance (aerobic) exercise relies almost entirely upon fats, with a small amount of carbohydrates used as a “pilot light” to help burn fats efficiently. The body maintains a relatively limited supply of carbohydrates (in the form of glycogen) within the liver and to a lesser extent, within the muscles themselves. If utilized exclusively, energy supplies would quickly run out before the end of an endurance ride, resulting in fatigue and metabolic trouble. Fats, on the other hand, can be stored almost without limit within the body, and supply more than sufficient energy for endurance exercise. Therefore, fats and their metabolic products are the primary fuel source for the endurance horse, with small amounts of carbohydrates to help maintain the “pilot light.”

 

Fats are derived as a digestive product from the fiber in forages such as hay, beet pulp and pasture. Beneficial microbes in the horse’s cecum and colon ferment fiber to produce volatile fatty acids, which in turn, are absorbed and utilized as a fuel source within the muscle cells, or stored away in the form of adipose tissue (body fat). Additional dietary fats can be added directly in the ration in the form of vegetable oil or animal fats. As fats contain 2.2 times the calories of an equivalent amount of either carbohydrates or protein, adding moderate amounts of fat to the diet is an excellent way to help maintain a good body weight in hard-working endurance horses. Although human marathon athletes perform best with minimal body fat, endurance horses seem to do better with a reasonable amount of body fat cover. Field research on 100 mile endurance horses has strongly suggested that horses in reasonable body condition have a better chance of completing, with fewer metabolic problems, than do excessively “lean, mean racing machines.” Therefore, the ration should provide sufficient calories so that ribs can be easily felt, but not clearly seen, and hip bones are not visible. If you feel you need to apologize or “explain” your horse’s appearance in non-endurance company, he’s probably too thin! High-fat rations have also been suggested to provide other metabolic benefits, such as decreased heat load (useful during a hot summer ride season) and more efficient utilization of the short-supply glycogen. However, to fully gain such benefits, the average 1000 pound horse needs to consistently consume approximately four cups of vegetable oil per day for an extended period of time, an amount not all horses will willingly consume.

 

Grains are digested differently from forages, in that enzymes in the small intestine break down their starch (carbohydrate) content, which are then absorbed into the bloodstream as glucose. Research indicates that the digestive system of most horses cannot optimally handle more than about four to five pounds of grain at one time. As the digestive enzymes are overwhelmed by the largesse, excess undigested grain is passed along to the cecum, where it is fermented as though forage. Resulting changes in the microbial populations can have profound deleterious effects. At best, too much grain decreases the efficiency by which nutrients are derived from the feed. At worst, the shifts in the microbial population can release toxic substances, which in turn can cause colic and laminitis. For these reasons, horses should not receive more than 50% of their total ration in the form of grain and preferably no more than approximately four pounds at any one time.

 

The average 1000 pound horse needs approximately 15 megacalories (Mcals = 1000 calories) of energy per day for maintenance, not including the added energy demands needed for exercise. There are several complicated formulas that estimate the additional caloric requirements of exercise, but a reasonable approximation can be obtained by using the figure 0.07 Mcal per mile per 100 pounds of weight (both horse, rider and tack weight combined) traveling between 4 and 8 mph; and 0.10 Mcal per mile per 100 pounds at approximately 12 mph. At higher speeds, energy costs increase dramatically. As an example, an average horse and rider conditioning at relatively slow speeds for 35 miles a week can expect to require an extra 4.2 Mcals of energy per day (the cost of riding 35 miles divided by seven days). When added to the daily maintenance requirement of 15 Mcals, this horse would need a total of 19.2 Mcals per day to supply his energy demands. When you calculate that a 100 mile ride may use upwards of 80 Mcals for exercise alone, it becomes much more apparent why so much attention is paid towards supplying sufficient calories to these hard-working athletes.

 

Most horses are only capable of consuming between 2% to 3% of their body weight per day, thus a 1000 pound horse generally cannot consume more than between 20 to 30 pounds of feed on a dry matter basis (the amount of feed after disallowing for water content). Most hays and grain are 90% dry matter, therefore you can expect a maximum intake of between 22 and 33 pounds of feed per day. Horses consuming green pasture, with its 75%-80% water content, must consume much more on a pound-for-pound basis to obtain the same nutrition. Formulate your ration so that, ideally, at least 1.5% of the horse’s body weight is provided in the form of forage to maintain adequate bulk in the diet. Always provide a bare minimum of 1% of the horse’s body weight in the form of forage. Example, a 1000 pound horse x 1.5% = 15 pounds; allowing for 90% dry matter, provide 16-17 pounds of forage daily. At least half of the forage ration should be in the form of long-stem hay, or pasture. If desired, the other 50% can be in the form of beet pulp, hay pellets or hay cubes. Using the above example, at least eight pounds should be long-stem hay, and eight pounds could be fed as pellets, cubes or beet pulp.

 

Most grass or cereal grain hays contain between .7 and .8 Mcal per pound, and alfalfa contains approximately .9 Mcals per pound. Using the above estimate of 19.2 Mcal daily requirement, a horse would have to consume more than 27 pounds of grass hay to maintain weight. Many horses would be unwilling or unable to consume this amount, so more energy-dense concentrates must replace a portion of the ration to provide sufficient calories. Most grains contain between 1.3 and 1.5 Mcal per pound, while fats contain approximately 4 Mcals per pound. Replacing six pounds of hay with five pounds of a good quality grain mix and a cup of vegetable oil, split into two equal meals, will raise the total calorie content of the ration to approximately 23 Mcals, sufficient for most horses on a moderate conditioning program.

 

Err on the side of caution when feeding grain on non-work days, especially if your horse is confined to a stall or small pen. A good rule of thumb is to reduce the grain ration by half on days when the horse is not exercised in some manner. To avoid digestive upset, grain should constitute no more than 50% of the total ration. Example, if your horse’s total maximum daily intake is 20 pounds, do not feed more than ten pounds of grain per day—look into other ways of increasing calories by the addition of fats or beet pulp. If you are feeding a substantial amount of grain or fat (more than four pounds daily), splitting the concentrates into two or more meals minimizes likelihood of digestive upset and maximizes efficiency.

 

The dietary addition of fat can be provided in several ways. Although some horses prefer the taste of corn oil, any good-quality vegetable oil is satisfactory. There is no significant difference in nutrition or caloric content between different types. Depending on the conditions, vegetable oil may begin to oxidize and go rancid within a week of being exposed to light, heat and oxygen, significantly reducing its nutritional value and increasing free radicals and peroxides. Many horses that refuse fats in their diet are simply objecting to rancidity in elderly vegetable oil. To keep fats as fresh as possible, keep oil in a cool, dark place (the refrigerator is ideal) and in containers which only hold a seven to ten day supply. If larger quantities are purchased for the lower cost, pour a week’s supply into smaller containers and keep the main supply container separate and tightly closed.

 

Contrary to common belief, horses are very capable of efficiently digesting and absorbing fats from animal sources. Due to its saturated molecular structure, animal fats also do not go rancid quite as quickly as vegetable fats. The most common source of animal fat available for equine diets is the prilled “dry” fat available from feed suppliers catering to cattle and swine producers. Many horses that object to the texture of liquid fats in their ration will accept the addition of dry fats. As with the addition of any new feed, start adding fats slowly and increase over time. If feeding more than two cups of fat per day, try to split the added fat into two or more meals to maximize digestive efficiency.

 

Another forage to consider is beet pulp, the forage by-product remaining after the sugar is fully extracted from sugar beets. The fiber it contains is highly digestible and palatable to horses, and because it is digested in the hindgut similar to grass or hay, can safely be fed to horses in amounts up to half of the forage ration (about ten pounds dry weight for most horses). Its inclusion is an excellent way to increase the calorie content of the ration without the risks of excessive grain. Although dry (unsoaked) beet pulp has been safely fed to many horses without incident, some horses (especially greedy eaters) may choke on any small, pelleted feed, including dry beet pulp. As additional fluid intake is always a benefit to endurance horses, soaking for a half hour or so before feeding is a good idea. Adding water is not necessary with beet pulp-based commercial mixes, but mashes of any type should ideally be provided wet and soupy during competition to maximize fluid intake and help avoid dehydration.

 

Although alfalfa hay is plentiful and cheap in many parts of the country, it is generally not the best primary forage for endurance horses. The high protein content (significant in even poor quality alfalfa) produces metabolic waste heat that must be dissipated through sweat loss during hot weather, potentially contributing to dehydration during rides when water consumption may not be optimal. This metabolic heat may help during cold weather to “stoke the furnace,” but is a hindrance during hot weather and sustained exercise. In addition, the high calcium content when fed in large amounts has been suggested to inhibit the body’s ability to mobilize calcium stores in bone tissue during exercise, thereby contributing to the incidence of tying-up and synchronous diaphragmatic flutter (“thumps”). While small amounts of alfalfa do no harm, and may help prevent calcium depletion during rides, it should ideally be viewed as a supplement to good quality grass hay, and not a replacement. Try to minimize alfalfa in the diet to less than 50% of the ration and, ideally, less than 25%.

Protein is probably the most overused and overrated nutrient in the adult horse’s diet. Mature horses, even at hard work, only require approximately 10% crude protein in the ration. Additional protein provides no additional benefits to performance and in fact, has been implicated in increased incidence of metabolic failure in other equestrian disciplines. Sufficient protein is easily provided by a diet of reasonable quality grass hay or pasture and a good-quality balanced grain mix from a reputable company. More is not better!

 

Always provide free-choice salt and fresh, clean water. While electrolytes formulated for endurance horses may be beneficial during rides, they are not necessary at home, nor is fancy “designer” salt or mineral mix. Plain, iodized salt is sufficient. Block salt is convenient, but if possible, loose salt in a box or in the bottom of the feed manger allows for adequate consumption without long periods of licking or biting a block. A recipe for homemade electrolytes consists of equal parts iodized table salt and Lite salt (a mix of half potassium chloride and half sodium chloride). Mix three parts of this mixture to one part calcium carbonate (ground limestone). While this recipe is sufficient for home use or during transport, ongoing research at several universities is providing ever-increasing knowledge about the exact role of electrolytes in endurance competition. As your miles and experience build, consider using specific endurance formulas during competition, especially if you or the ride vet suspect electrolyte depletion may be affecting performance and health. As with everything in endurance, try different methods until you determine the best program for you.

 

Avoid the urge to provide your horse with a variety of vitamin and mineral supplements to improve performance, add a shiny coat, boost the immune system or just because “he might need it.” Nutritional problems among horses are almost always caused by excess rather than deficits in the diet. Rely on obtaining the best quality hay possible, supplement with a high-quality balanced grain mix from a reputable mill and provide salt and fresh water. In general, unless specifically prescribed by a veterinarian, the only exceptions to the no-supplement rule of thumb are:

1. Inquire as to whether your area is low in selenium. An inexpensive serum blood test may be helpful to establish selenium status. As selenium can easily be fed in sufficient amounts to produce toxicity as well, determine whether a deficiency exists before adding a supplement.

2. Research has suggested that the addition of 20-25 mg of biotin on a daily basis may improve the quality of hoof tissue. As biotin is a water-soluble B-vitamin, excesses are excreted quickly through the kidneys, and are not stored in the body. Therefore, feeding more than 20-25 mg daily will only add to the costs, not benefits. Clinical trials indicate that biotin improves the quality of hoof tissue, but not the rate at which it grows—therefore, daily and consistent supplementation and patience is necessary before noticeable improvement will be seen.

3. The daily addition of 1000 IU of vitamin E may be helpful in reducing oxidative damage to body tissues produced by free radicals. This is especially relevant if a significant amount of fats are fed on a regular basis.

4. Healthy horses are capable of synthesizing sufficient vitamin C within the liver. However, recent research is indicating that additional vitamin C may be helpful specifically during periods of stress, such as prolonged transport. Ten grams twice a day is a sufficient amount. Daily supplementing with additional vitamin C as part of the normal routine during non-stress periods does not provide additional benefits to the immune system, and may suppress the body’s ability to synthesize its own supplies.

 

II. Feeding during competition

The two most important things you’ll give your horse on ride day are directions and water.  The rule of “never try out anything new at a ride” also applies to nutrition. Try not to provide more than a few pounds of any feed which is not routinely fed at home, as abrupt changes in feed, along with the stress and dehydration which often accompanies any competition, may contribute to incidence of colic.

 

Begin nutritional preparation for a ride several days before leaving home. Encourage maximum intake of forages, especially beet pulp, as clinical trials have demonstrated that a combination of hay and beet pulp provides a significant reservoir of fluid and electrolytes in the hindgut to draw upon during exercise. As the movement of forages through the digestive tract takes several days, forages should be provided in abundance several days prior to the ride. Continue to provide forage free-choice during transport, as soon as you arrive at base camp and throughout the night. Long stem hay is preferable over cubes or pellets as the added bulk will help maintain gut motility.

 

It is best not to feed large amounts of grain within four hours of the start of the ride, as the glucose peak produced during digestion of simple carbohydrates adversely affects the utilization of body fats needed during a long day of exercise. Providing a few pounds of grain for a day or two prior to the ride is more than sufficient to “top up” glycogen stores within the liver and muscles. However, adding a handful or two of grain for flavor to an overnight beet pulp mash will do no harm. The point is to avoid large grain meals immediately before exercise.

 

Pay the utmost attention to maintaining hydration and gut motility before worrying about boosting energy. Assuming your horse is fit for the job at hand, a well-hydrated horse with ongoing gut motility will outperform a dehydrated and colicky horse every time, regardless of the amount of “rocket fuel” on board. Plan your day so that your horse can snack his way throughout the ride, rather than exercise nonstop and then eat only while at vet checks. Take the opportunity whenever possible to stop for a few minutes of grazing along the trail or carry a few pounds of hay with you between vet checks. Doing so will help avoid dehydration, maintain good gut motility and thereby maintain energy and performance. At vet checks, provide plenty of free-choice forage and ideally, a sloppy mash of well-soaked beet pulp. Grain, wheat bran, carrots, etc., can be added to the mash to increase palatability and supply additional energy. Do not rely upon wheat bran to act as a laxative and avoid colic—bran provides bulk in some species (such as humans), but does not have the same benefits in herbivores.

 

Do not add fats immediately before or during the ride. Although it would seem like a good source of energy, a high fat ration tends to decrease forage intake needed to maintain motility and hydration. The relatively small amount of fat in commercial grain mixes (even “high fat” formulations) is not a concern. Especially in hot, humid weather, significant amounts of electrolytes are lost in the sweat. Sodium, chloride and potassium are the primary ions lost, along with smaller amounts of calcium, magnesium and other trace minerals. Increasing scientific data indicates that supplementing during exercise, and thereby minimizing depletion, is beneficial in possibly averting metabolic problems such as thumps, tying-up, poor gut sounds and other symptoms associated with “exhausted horse syndrome.” The body does not store excess electrolytes against future need, therefore “pre-loading” several days before a ride will not replace supplementation during the ride itself. However, orally syringing a day or two before the ride (especially before and during transport) may help trigger a “thirst response” to encourage drinking. Likewise, supplementing throughout the day may encourage drinking as well as replace electrolytes lost through sweating. As with every other feed supplied throughout an endurance ride, small and frequent amounts are usually preferable to large and infrequent. Electrolytes are often added to feed or water, but some horses may refuse too salty a flavor, and therefore also refuse much-needed food and water. Although horses do develop an appetite for needed salt to replace depleted stores, this is not an instantaneous response. Don’t rely on this mechanism during a ride! Oral syringing is a good alternative that has worked well for many horses and riders. Take advantage of the increasing body of scientific data and consider the use of research-based electrolytes formulated specifically for endurance horses.

 

III. Feeding after the competition

Once you’ve successfully crossed the finish line and received your final vet check, don’t assume the energy demands of the day are over for your horse. Depending on the length and intensity of your ride, it can take days or even weeks to fully replace the fluids, calories and nutrients used during competition. Allow your horse plenty of opportunity to drink his fill to replace lost fluids, including during the trailer ride home. Provide plenty of forage free-choice. The “stress hormones” produced during exercise may continue to deplete the body of electrolytes for several days following the ride and continued supplementing with electrolytes may help ensure a quick recovery. Research has suggested that glycogen repletion is increased during the 24 hours following strenuous exercise and may help avoid sore or stiff muscles. Small amounts of grain every few hours—not exceeding his normal accustomed amounts—is helpful, as long as your horse is not unduly dehydrated or experiencing metabolic trouble. If you are in doubt about gut motility, check with the ride vet before feeding anything other than forage and water.

Even though a 100 mile endurance ride can use upwards of 80 Mcals to provide needed energy, don’t try to replace the expended calories overnight. Giving your horse access to all the forage he can eat, moderate amounts of grain and judicious amounts of fat over the next week or two will gradually replace the lost calories without risking digestive upset.

 

Formulating the best nutritional strategy for you and your horse is as individual as any other aspect of a successful conditioning program. Absolutes such as “always” and “never” are rarely applicable—for every horse that does well on one program, an entirely different strategy will work just as well for another. Use these few baseline suggestions along with your own common sense and knowledge of your horse to create the feeding and management program that works best for you.

 

Chapter Five

Tack

 

Using the right-fitting tack can make the difference between finishing a ride with a happy, healthy horse and finishing with a horse suffering from a sore back, girth galls, or worse. It can also make the difference between an enjoyable ride for you and your horse and an unenjoyable ride. Endurance riders have learned much about what works and doesn’t work, and this chapter will try to pass along some of that experience. The novice rider should seek the advice of experienced riders. Of course if you talk to ten different endurance riders about saddles, you will probably get at least a dozen opinions.

 

At a typical endurance ride you will see nearly every kind of saddle known to man or beast. Many beginners ride a traditional Western saddle. It is heavy, and any extra weight is a penalty for a horse going 25 to 50 miles or more. Worse, most Western saddles put the rider’s weight too far to the rear, leading to early fatigue and soreness. They are designed to keep the rider in place while working cattle, not to provide balance and comfort for miles and miles. Roping saddles are even worse in this respect. A flaw of some Western saddles is the position of the rigging which is too far forward, contributing to girth soreness or galls. The stiff fenders and stirrup leathers of the Western saddle might wear like iron, but can rub a rider’s legs raw. The saddle horn, necessary for roping, just gets in the way on endurance rides and is a hazard in a fall.

 

English saddles are lighter and put the rider’s weight more forward than Western saddles. They offer closer contact with the horse than Western saddles and riders sometimes feel less secure in them. Some English types are more suited to endurance than others, i.e., the dressage saddles (deeper seats with the rider’s leg under, rather than forward). The downside of English saddles is a lack of proper distribution of the rider’s weight; that is, many of them do not spread the rider’s weight over a large enough area of the horse’s back. For the featherweight and lightweight riders, this is not a problem but heavyweight riders may need a saddle with more surface area contacting the horse.

 

Australian stock saddles have a strong following. Most of these are high quality, give the rider a firm seat, and seem to work well for endurance riding. But some riders find that the thigh fenders bruise their legs. McClellan saddles have a lot to offer the endurance rider, but comfort is not one of them. This saddle was used by the cavalry, and was designed to be good for the horse with no compromises toward rider comfort. In fact, it’s been said of this saddle’s designer that he loved horses and hated men.

 

There are a number of saddles on the market today specifically designed for endurance riding. They fall into three categories: those based on Western designs, those based on English designs, and those based on McClellan designs. With the growth of endurance in the past ten years there are many innovations on the market. See the ads in Endurance News and ask other riders for their opinions.

 

So which saddle is best for you? There’s no easy answer for that. First of all, the saddle must fit your horse, and every horse is an individual. One should first try a saddle on a horse when the horse is standing and eliminate any saddle that does not fit properly. Then one should try the saddle out on a good lengthy trail ride that includes varying terrain including uphill and downhill. Only a the saddle that fits well both statically and dynamically should be seriously considered. The novice rider should seek advice from an experienced rider or somebody who is an expert in saddle fitting. One should never cut corners in saddle fitting. On the other hand a good fitting saddle need not be expensive. The used saddle that is right for your horse may be a great option.

 

Weight might or might not be an important consideration for you, but no endurance saddles should weigh over 30 pounds—unless you’re trying to make a minimum weight for a ride with those requirements.

 

There are many improvements today on the traditional Western stirrups or English “irons.” There are several lightweight designs with extra-wide platforms for your foot; a narrow stirrup is likely to cut off the circulation to your toes resulting in painful cramps and numbness. Some designs use springs, rubber blocks, or flexible materials to add shock absorption to the stirrup. Others include safety features such as open sides or breakaway fastenings to prevent being dragged in a fall. Almost any of these special designs will be lighter, safer, and more comfortable than traditional stirrups.

 

Pads are another important consideration for your horse’s back. The traditional Western blanket does not work very well. It has little resiliency and covers too large an area. As to material, natural wool pads with a foam lining often work best. If you can’t afford wool, Kodel can be good. Several manufacturers make pad liners that vary in thickness and/or density over different parts of the horse’s back, and these might help the saddle to sit level and therefore aid the rider in maintaining a balanced seat. Some saddles have a custom made pad built in to achieve the same result.

 

Don’t make the mistake of thinking “more is better” and use two or even three pads; thick pads won’t cure problems caused by an ill-fitting saddle. Too many pads or pads which are too thick allow the saddle to roll. A stack of pads can also cause the back to retain a lot of heat.  Whatever type pad you use, the shape of the pad should match that of the saddle. Especially in hot weather, you don’t want to cover any more of the horse’s back than necessary.

 

Breast collars, cruppers, bridles, halters, and halter-bridle combos come in nylon, leather, and Bioplastics. Ordinary nylon gets stiff from absorbing salt and dirt, and is hard to keep clean. Bioplastic is nylon with a smooth plastic coating; it washes clean easily, doesn’t become stiff, and usually does not rub the horse. It is available in many widths and colors, and more and more suppliers are making horse tack out of it. Traditional leather can cause chafing and will need regular care to stay soft and pliable. However, leather will break in case you have a fall, and this is a good safety feature. Serious accidents can result from the rider being caught in the tack.

A good breast collar can help hold the saddle in place, preventing its sliding back. However, any breast collar which goes straight across the chest of the horse can make the shoulder muscles sore (especially on a 100 mile ride). These do not do much to prevent the saddle from shifting sideways. You should use a design in which the breast collar is shaped like the letter “Y,” with the stem of the “Y” between the front legs, and with the branches going up the front of both shoulders to the saddle properly fitted. This works much better without discomforting the horse.

 

Most horses don’t need cruppers, but if your horse has low withers a good crupper can keep you from finding yourself riding his ears on a steep downhill! If you decide to use one, be sure to accustom your horse to it at home. In fact it’s not a good idea to try out any new equipment at a ride.

 

There are as many different bit and bridle designs as there are riders. Combination halter and bridles are very convenient at vet checks. There are riders who prefer a hackamore to a bit for endurance riding as it allows the horse to drink and graze easily on the trail. And there are some brave souls who ride with nothing more than a halter. Nevertheless, bits, however mild, aid a rider in “collecting” a horse and can help put a tired, strung-out horse back together.

Girths run the gamut from leather to string to neoprene–from Western to English to dressage. They can all rub galls and cause great discomfort if not fitted properly. Whatever you use, don’t fasten so tight as to cut off horse’s wind. Coat with lubrication if necessary.

 

Of course, whatever tack you use, be sure it fits the horse and that you keep it clean and in good repair. A little thought, planning, and care in choosing and fitting your tack will make a big difference in performance on the trail.

 

Chapter Six

Conditioning

 

I. PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS

In conditioning, the ultimate goal is to develop to maximum potential whatever natural athletic ability any given individual possesses. The object of this chapter is to acquaint the reader with the basic principles of conditioning and to suggest some methods and time frames appropriate for preparing a horse for competition in an endurance test. Each horse is an individual and each horse’s ideal conditioning program should be tailored to the horse and to its environment. For example, horses running each day on 50 acres of hilly pasture will need far less conditioning under saddle than a horse kept in a 15’ by 20’ corral most of the time. The novice endurance rider would do well to find an experienced rider with a record of developing horses that have competed successfully over many years as a mentor.

Science, methodology and time charts are not the whole story, however. Conditioning horses is as much an art form as a science. Trainers concern themselves with more than pulse rates and blood counts, although these things are surely important. The best trainers have developed an intuitive “feel” for how the horse is doing overall. They know whether an individual prefers routine or diversity. They know the difference between the horse being lazy or being bored, between being eager or actually being fearful. They know if the horse likes his work—and if he doesn’t they worry about how to get him to like it. “Know your horse” is the best piece of advice you’ll probably ever get, although it might be some time before you understand what it means. You should also occasionally ask yourself what your horse thinks of you.

 

Finally, all the knowledge and intuition in the world won’t count for much unless the conditioning program is conscientiously applied. Everyone has duties that will sometimes interrupt the schedule, but it is all too easy to let the whole program become haphazard. If you skip one day you can’t make it up by riding twice as hard the next. If you are serious about what you are doing, you must maintain your momentum, and balance this with patience.

 

Note that horses have a very different physiology than people. Horses are prey animals and foragers who were made to cover distance easily and were made to run quickly to flee danger. The horse’s ability to oxygenate muscle and its overall cardiovascular system are far superior to a human’s. Be leery of some of the older literature on training programs for endurance horses. These were basically attempts to adapt human running programs and probably called for far too much mileage and not enough rest for the horse.

 

Before getting started, the rider should realize that any endurance prospect has a limit to his innate ability, and that this limit might not be sufficient to satisfy the rider’s competitive goals. Recognizing this problem and coming to terms with it is perhaps the most difficult thing any horseman will ever do. You can’t make a Kentucky Derby winner out of a plow horse, no matter how hard you try. If your goal in endurance riding is to find a companion that can carry you quietly across the miles while you enjoy the beauty of the countryside, your needs will be quite different from the ambitious individual who plans to win next year’s national championships or to try out for the international team. By the way, the ambitious individual who plans to win next year’s national championship better have started several years earlier or spent a lot of money to buy an already well-conditioned top prospect. It takes at least three years to get a horse ready to do a top quality 100. Rushing this process is just asking for injury. Decide honestly what you want to do and choose your horse and your conditioning program accordingly.

If you are in satisfactory health, you should consider some type of exercise other than riding to improve your own fitness, because when you become fatigued you will not ride as well. Someone who is off-balance or tense from pain will adversely affect the performance of the horse, causing him to tighten or twist his back, or compensate in other ways. This added effort accelerates fatigue and increases the likelihood of injury.

 

Aside from developing your overall fitness, cross-training can also acquaint you with how it feels to work hard physically. It gives you a much better empathy with your horse when you are both undergoing the same remodeling. Lack of time is no excuse because you can walk or run alongside your horse as you warm him up every day. However, just as with the horse, your exercise program should be carefully constructed and implemented. Consult a knowledgeable person to help you get started with a schedule appropriate to your present state of fitness.

 

While some successful endurance horses have never seen the inside of a schooling arena, excellent balanced riding really helps the endurance horse and poor riding really hurts. If you are a skilled rider, great. If not, seriously consider lessons so that you can ride with rhythm, balance, and alignment. And consider equitation lessons for your horses. Joggers often notice that while they get fit from their activity they also tend to get stiff. The same holds true for endurance horses. Elementary schooling in an arena (dressage) is a good way to get the horse to stretch and bend. Specific exercises can also help strengthen specific physical weaknesses, resulting in a horse that is better balanced overall and therefore less prone to injury. Last but not least, it trains the horse to be more disciplined and responsive to your demands. More and more of the leading riders use dressage training for themselves and their horses.

 

Teaching your horse to jump a small course of fences or cavallettis can also be beneficial. Like dressage, it helps the horse learn to use his body in different ways and to handle himself better. Besides, you are bound to encounter obstacles on endurance rides from time to time, and if your horse has at least been exposed to the basics, you are less likely to get stranded someday on the wrong side of a log.

 

II. WHERE TO BEGIN: 0 TO 90 DAYS

It should be noted that it takes years to give the horse the tendon and ligament foundation to go fast over long distances. By contrast it is easy to condition the muscles and heart quickly. But without the structural foundation, the horse will break down. Before you begin any conditioning program, be sure your horse has been recently wormed and has his feet in good working order. Assuming he is already broken to ride, and assuming that he is healthy and neither too thin nor obese, you can start by riding two or three miles at about 5 mph. If you have already been riding the horse on a fairly regular basis for some time, then you can probably double the beginning mileage.

 

Many people prefer to work an endurance horse three days a week, allowing for several rest days, particularly if the horse is has lots of pasture to run in. For horses confined to small corrals or with limited turnout, some work five days a week may be appropriate but several of those days should be light. All of your work for the first two to three months will be slow, rarely faster than a trot. Depending on your personal preferences and what is available, you may want to ride trails, make some rounds in a field, or hack down a country road. Don’t forget to do a certain amount of basic arena schooling. This need not take up your whole day’s routine, but 20 or 30 minutes twice a week incorporated into the other work will be of great benefit. Concentrate on teaching transitions from one gait to another, prompt (but smooth and calm) reactions to the aids, lateral and longitudinal bending, etc.

 

Offer as much variety as you can in your program. Riding over hills is excellent exercise, requiring somewhat different muscular effort than flat terrain. The more places you can go to work, the better. At these early stages, however, take it easy. Young, unfit horses have neither the balance nor the strength to negotiate difficult terrain well. Be especially conservative as you tackle downhill grades; they are very destructive to juvenile joints.

 

On days that you add distance to your mileage, compensate by cutting back on the speed you usually travel. On days when you go a little faster than the previous day, cut back on the total mileage. If you go for a tough, hilly ride, don’t make it the longest distance your horse has ever attempted. Just use common sense whenever you up the ante.

 

The most accurate single indicator of condition is the horse’s pulse rate, and this is why endurance riders are so preoccupied with their stethoscopes and heart monitors. A necessary first step in learning to condition a horse is in learning to take his pulse. To use your stethoscope (which you can purchase at most drugstores or through your veterinarian), stand on the left side of the horse and put the round flat piece behind and slightly above the elbow. Some individuals are easy to hear; others are more difficult. If you cannot pick up the ticking sound with your horse at rest, exercise him and try again. Exercise will make the beat louder and faster. Most horses will have a resting count of 32 to 44 beats per minute (bpm). By contrast, the working trot for a horse over level terrain and excellent footing may be anywhere from 90 to 140 while horses at a full gallop may have a heart rate well over 200. (Note that you will only be able to observe these rates with an on-board heart monitor.) As you listen you will hear a “lub-dub” sound. This counts as one beat, i.e., lub-dub, lub-dub, lub-dub = three counts.

 

Many endurance riders use heart monitors both when they condition at home and when they compete. These monitors cost $125 and up, but they can be very useful. They are a big step up in determining working rates, because by the time you stop your horse, dismount, and get out your stethoscope and watch, the rate will have already dropped significantly—in fact, it may have dropped in half. A heart monitor is also essential if you want to do interval training later on (see Phase II). Knowing what to expect of your horse’s heart rate on the trail takes practice and experience. The working heart rate and the heart rate recovery as you change paces, go uphill and downhill, change footing and in general change the stress levels is one the best indicators of how your horse is doing.

 

One should do a “mini-vet exam” at the end of ea