Iceberg
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
For Spring 2011, Iceberg creative director Paolo Gerani took the classic children's tale The Little Prince as his inspiration, mining that book's proto-environmentalism for a collection that touched on themes of decay and renewal. Gerani created a backdrop from an undulating wall of cardboard, like a giant abandoned filing system, that suggested the kind of repurposing you might see in the slums of Lagos or Rio. (The association was strengthened by the techno world music accompaniment of the Chemical Brothers' "Galvanize" on the soundtrack.)The designer showed knitwear that looked old, burned, and holey; T-shirts decorated with duct tape; a shearling that could have been rescued from a bin; and distressed footwear. He also worked the recycling theme in sweatshirt material reconfigured as a tailored jacket/bomber hybrid and as a blazer with a baseball jacket's sleeves. Pinstriped silk pants with an elasticated ankle felt like they'd been pajamas in a former life. Two pristine blousons in green leather, meanwhile, evoked growth and rebirth.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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Adam Kimmel Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille -
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Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kris Van Assche -
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Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Neil Barrett -
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Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo -
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Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna