Gwanbok (Korean pronunciation: [goanbok]) is a Sino-Korean term derived from the terms guanfu (Chinese:
Gwanbok | |
Korean name | |
---|---|
Hangul | 관복 |
Hanja | |
Revised Romanization | gwanbok |
McCune–Reischauer | kwanbok |
History and development
editBefore adopting foreign systems, Korea had its own gwanbok system based on indigenous hanbok, mostly rooted in indigenous ranking systems and state religion like Mu-ism. They favoured luxurious clothes like purple clothing for the top ranks and had decorative golden metal crowns and pointy hats called adorned with metal accessories and feathers. Silla and the other three kingdoms of Korea each had a version of the Bone-rank system where each social rank were allowed only certain clothes and certain ranks in court.[5]
The rulers and the upper class in Korea's history adopted different kinds of foreign-influenced clothing in each dynasty, mostly from China's Tang, Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, while the commoners were generally less influenced by these foreign trends and their indigenous aesthetic continued to be seen in their clothing.[6]: 223 [7][8] Despite wearing foreign-influenced clothing, the rulers and the upper class still wore clothing that were indigenous outside of court.[5] Under the dominance of the Han dynasty, Goguryeo and the little states (Hanja:
Goguryeo
editAfter Gojoseon of Liaodong was defeated by the Han dynasty of China, four Chinese commanderies known as the Han-Sagoon were established in the region in 108 BCE. Proto-Koreanic entities were in constant conflict with these states until Goguryeo eventually ousted the Chinese from those regions by the early 4th century CE.[11] One of them was the Daebang Commandery, established between 204 and 314 CE,[11] and another was the Nakrang Commandery which continued to exist until the early fourth century CE and transmitted Han dynasty culture and lifestyle to the regions, including the Korean peninsula.[11] Even after the ousting, Goguryeo court attire shows influences of the guanfu system.[11]
A long type of po was introduced to Goguryeo and originated from the long paofu which was worn by the Han Chinese in court.
Another form of robe was the mid-calf po, which originated from the Northern Chinese, and was used to fend against cold weather; this form of robe was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class for various ceremonies and rituals.[12] This court po was eventually modified and became the durumagi with no vents.[13] According to Samuel Lee:[12]
"[Goguryeo] [m]urals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was sang and that worn only by women was goon, which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates from the long coat worn by northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. The long coats [of the northern Chinese] reached mid-calf and had bindings similar to those used for jeogori. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form [of the court po] worn by the general populace came to be known as durumagi."
The court po was used for ceremonies and rituals, as well as in the royal attire goguryeo called the ochaebok.[12][note 1] And, what is now currently known as the durumagi forms part of the indigenous hanbok attire as:[14]
The Han dynasty influences can also be observed in the tomb murals of Goguryeo which were primarily painted in two regions: Ji'an (
The Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the Anak Tomb No. 3 of Goguryeo dated 357 AD located near Pyeongyang, shows also strong influences of the Eastern Han dynasty which appears to have continued lingering in the regions of Manchuria during the third and early fourth centuries CE.[16] The subjects and characteristics found on the murals are derived from the murals found in the Eastern Han dynasty tombs of China.[16] The tomb owner is depicted as an idealized official of the Eastern Han dynasty being seated in frontal position wearing a Chinese paofu; the closest prototype of this mural painting can be found in the mural from the Yuantaizi Tomb in Chaoyang country, Liaoning, dating from the 4th century CE.[16] The painting of the wife of the tomb owner wears a multi-layered Chinese attire, known as the zaju chuishao fu (Chinese: 杂裾
Traces of influences from the Han dynasty continued to appear in the early 5th century Goguryeo tomb murals located in the Pyeongyang areas, such as those from the Gamsinchong (
[Tomb Owner] This figure is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
— National Museum of Korea, Quarterly Magazine Vol. 07, No. 07, Spring 2009
Illustrations of maids from the same tomb are also depicted wearing clothing attire which are similar to those worn from the North and South dynasties of China to the Tang dynasty the clothing attire of these maids are different from the one worn by the maids in the murals in Ji'an.[15]: 16 Moreover, Goguryeo, influenced by the Chinese, also developed the ritual of bestowing attire to smaller entities, such as Silla, which in turn did so to other smaller entities.[9]
Silla and Baekje
editSouthern parts of the Korean Peninsula had less influence from mainland political entities. The influence of Goguryeo can be seen in Silla court clothing, which included a similar decorative apron with triangles but under their jeogori (top) in a more indigenous fashion. Baekje had formed its own gwanbok system with influences from Silla that in turn influenced the Japanese court attire of the Yayoi and Kofun periods.
North-South States period and Goryeo dynasty
editUnified Silla
editThe official guanfu system of the Tang dynasty was brought into Korea in 647 AD by Kim Chunchu who travelled to the Tang to request clothing and belts.[18][19][6]: 223 [20] The danryeong (Korean: 단령; Hanja:
Balhae
editIn Balhae, the official attire of civil and military officials were issued by the state. During King Mun's reign, Balhae started to integrate Tang dynasty elements, such as the bokdu and danryeong into its official attire.[22] The official court attire in Balhae varied in colour based on the rank of the official; the colours worn were purple, red, light red, and green.[22]
Goryeo
editIn Goryeo, the gwanbok was typically influenced by the Tang and Song dynasty.[23] However, due to the instability among mainland political entities, early Goryeo period had no official bestowing of gwanbok by an emperor. Early Goryeo operated with the Emperor at home, king abroad system. They used the emperor’s attire instead of a king. For the Myeonbok, they used the 12 stringed Myeongryugwan instead of 9 and performed rituals reserved for the emperor.[citation needed] The danryeong, which was introduced during the United Silla period, continued to be worn as the outerwear of Goryeo officials and became part of the kingdom's official attire.[21] However, the government officials continued to wear their daily-life clothing, such as a jeogori and baji (trousers) under their gwanbok work clothing. Wearing everyday clothing under gwanbok had already become a tradition since the Unified Silla period.[23] The royalty and aristocrats of Goryeo also wore danryeong and gwanmo that typically followed mainland Song dynasty official attire; this can be observed in Buddhist paintings of the Goryeo era.[24]: 192
In 11th century, Goryeo was bestowed with the nine-stringed myeonryugwan and myeonbok and also received official attire from the Khitan Liao and Jurchen Jin dynasties as a sign that both were superior states to Goryeo.[9] This ritual of bestowing attire to recognize a superior was broken during the Mongol Yuan dynasty.[9] After Goryeo was subjugated by the Yuan dynasty of China, the Goryeo kings, royal court, and government had several titles and privileges downgraded to the point that they were no more the equals of the Yuan emperors.[25]: 170 The Goryeo kings were themselves demoted from their traditional status of imperial ruler of a kingdom to the status of a lower-rank king of a vassal state;[25]: 170 [26]: 565 as such they were forbidden from wearing the yellow goryongpo (dragon robes) as it was reserved for the Yuan emperors.[27]: 123–124 At that time, they had to wear a purple goryongpo instead of a yellow one.[27]: 123–124 During the Mongol Yuan and late Goryeo period, Goryeo received Mongolian formal attire such as jilson as a sign of trust and Anda.[citation needed] Goryeo kings at that time sometimes wore Mongol attire instead; several Mongol clothing elements were adopted in the attire of Goryeo.[27]: 123–124 Goryeo clothing-style customs also became popular at the end of the Yuan dynasty among Mongol rulers, aristocrats, queens and imperial concubines in the capital city under the influence of Empress Gi (a former Kongnyo and last empress of the Yuan dynasty, lit. "tribute women") when she was elevated as empress in 1365, a few years before the Yuan dynasty ended in 1368, and when she started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.[28][29] The fashion trend was dubbed goryeoyang (Chinese:
"Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [Koryŏ yang] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."
The ritual bestowal of Gwanbok only resumed in late Goryeo.[9] In an attempt to restore new cultural norms which they perceived as being non-contaminated by the Mongol cultural influences, King Gongming and King U of Goryeo tired to establish amicable diplomatic relationship with the Ming dynasty and voluntarily requested to be bestowed clothing from the Ming dynasty, which included their royal attire (e.g. the goryongpo) and thus recognized the superiority of the Ming dynasty.[9]
Joseon
editCourt clothing
editThe Gwanbok system of Joseon continued the one used from the late Goryeo period and based itself on an early Ming dynasty court attire.[32]: 116 During the coup d’etat of Yi Seong-gye, Joseon had created its own gwanbok style, such as the blue gonryongpo, a color representing the east.[citation needed] However, since the establishment of the Joseon dynasty, the Joseon court developed stronger ties with Ming China and followed the Confucian dress system which became outlined in the Gyeongguk daejeon《경국대전;
Even after the fall of the Ming dynasty when the Chinese empire was no longer ruled by Han Chinese people, the rulers of Joseon did not regard the Manchu as the legitimate rulers of China; instead, they viewed the Joseon court as "the only true, legitimate heir to [the] Ming dynasty".[32]: 116 This belief was reflected in the Joseon gwanbok, which continued to show the Ming dynasty-based clothing design.[32]: 116 It was also the pride of Joseon to preserve Confucian culture and visually manifest it through the traditional dress system of the Ming dynasty.[32]: 48
Moreover, the animosity caused by the Later Jin invasion fuelled this notion which continued due to the Qing invasion of Joseon.[citation needed] Joseon continued to use the Ming dynasty-based gwanbok rather than receiving the Manchu-style guanfu, which they considered as being hobok and ironically barbaric.[33] In the later half of the Joseon dynasty, as new gwanbok could not be requested from the fallen Ming, it was instead manufactured in Korea which leads to its localization, such as the uniquely Korean U-shaped collar found in the danryeong, which can also be seen in later forms of wonsam.[33]
Korean Empire
editDuring the times of the Korean Empire, Emperor Gojong appropriated the highest formal, imperial dress of the Ming dynasty when he was enthroned as Emperor in 1897;[32]: 116 Emperor Gojong wore the goryongpo and had changed the original colour of his red goryongpo to yellow, which was the same colour reserved to the Emperor of China.[34] Only Emperor Gojong and Emperor Sunjong were able to wear the yellow goryongpo.[35] He also wore a myeongbok decorated with the Twelve Ornaments along with a mianguan with twelve beaded strings; a style of attire which he had appropriated from the mianfu Chinese emperor when he declared himself emperor as he was only supposed to wear nine beaded strings when he was a feudal king.[32]: 56 He also upgraded his jobok to that of the Chinese Emperor's by including the tongtianguan (통천관;
Wedding dress
editThe commoner men were only allowed to wear gwanbok (관복;
Types of gwanbok
editThere were several types of gwanbok (관복;
Gongbok
editThe gongbok (공복;
Jebok
editThe jebok (제복;
The robe was a danryeong with large-sleeves which was made of black silk gauze; it was worn with a jegwan (mourning cap), a red skirt, a dae (girdle), a bangshim-gokryeong (a ritual token which was attached to the round collar), a husu (a black apron with embroidery and tassels), leggings, Korean cotton socks, and low-sided shoes called hye.[12]: 55–58 The joogdan (inner garment) was made of white silk, the white neck band of the inner robe was visible under the jebok.[12]: 55–58 A red apron was worn between the jebok and the joogdan.[12]: 55–58
Jeogui
editThe jeogui (적의; 翟
In the early Joseon, the Ming dynasty bestowed the daehong daesam, a plain red ceremonial robe along with chiljeokgwan, a guan with seven pheasants, to the Joseon queen which was then worn as a ceremonial attire.[39]
In the late Joseon, the jeogui system of Joseon was developed and was modified such that pheasant heads would appear on the back of the daesam along and also added a rank badge to the jeogui.[39] During the Korean empire, the jeogui was modified again and became blue in colour for the Korean queen which was now proclaimed empress; this blue jeogui also expressed the proclamation of Korea as an independent nation.[39]
Jobok
editThe jobok (조복;
It was also the official court attire for the high-ranking military and civil officials; they wore it when they would meet with the King and was worn for important ceremonies.[12]: 53–55 Examples of special occasions were the national festivals, or announcement of royal decrees.[41] The jobok consisted of a wide-sleeved, red silk gauze robe which was worn over a blue inner robe; a red apron was worn in the front of back.[12]: 53–55 On the back, there was a husu, i.e. a rectangular-shaped embroidered insignia.[12]: 53–55 To indicate the rank of the officials, officials wore geumgwan; the geumgwan had gold stripes which would mark its wearer's rank.[12]: 53–55
During the Korean Empire period, when Emperor Gojong wore the jobok as his attire for imperial audience, he decided to upgrade his jobok to that of the Chinese Emperor's by including the tongtianguan (통천관;
Myeongbok
editThe mianfu (면복; 冕服; myeonbok; lit. coronation dress) was the most stately habit of the Chinese Emperor, which consisted of a mianguan (면류관; 冕旒
The Korean myeonbok differed from the mianfu worn by the Chinese Emperor as the King of Joseon were feudal kings. As feudals kings, the Kings of Joseon were not allowed to use the twelve beaded strings instead they had to use nine beaded strings.[32]: 56 Moreover, they were supposed to wear a robe in their myeonbok which was decorated with nine out of the Twelve Ornaments and thus their this robe was referred gujangbok (Hanja:
Following the fall of the Ming dynasty, the Joseon court decided to establish their own myeonbok system in accordance to their own national customs under the reign of King Yeonjo in 1744.[42] Until 1897, King Yeonjo's guidelines concerning the Joseon myeonbok system remained in effect; some changes were later on implemented with the proclaiming of the Korean Empire.[42] When Emperor Gojong declared himself emperor of Korea when he appropriated the ancient Chinese dress system and wore a myeonbok, which emulated the mianfu with Twelve ornaments and the twelve-beaded string mianguan of the Chinese emperor.[32]: 56 The Joseon myeonbok was thus localized and developed into its current form through time.[42]
Sangbok
editThe sangbok (상복;
Yungbok
editThe yungbok was related to military affairs.[43]
Gallery
edit-
Gwanbok in the Goryeo period, 11th century.
-
Gwanbok in the Goryeo period, 14th century.
-
Gwanbok in the 15th century
-
Gwanbok in the 17th century
-
Sibok in the late 18th century
-
Gwanbok in the 19th century
See also
editNotes
editReferences
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高 麗 圖 經 』譯註 」(8) -권7, 「冠 服 」편을 중심으로-" [Goryeodogyoung Annotated (8)]. The Journal for the Studies of Korean History. 72. The Society for the Studies of Korean History: 251–296. ISSN 1229-6252 – via DSPACE Repository. - ^ Kang [강], Soon Ae [순애] (March 2017). "
月 沙 李 廷龜의冠 服 奏請 陳 奏 正使 와 관련된送別 기록 연구" [A Study of the Parting Records Related to Wolsa Yi Jung-gui’s Gwanbokjucheong Jinjujeongsa]. 서지학연구 (in Korean). 69: 15–48. ISSN 1225-5246. - ^ a b c d e f g Lee, Min Jung (2015). "Investiture of King and Bestowment of Robe and Crown in the Early to Middle of Goryeo Dynasty" 고려 전·중기(918~1213)의 국왕 책봉(
冊 封 )과 관복(冠 服 ) 사여. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 39 (1): 133–146. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2015.39.1.133. ISSN 1225-1151. - ^ "Gwanbok | British Museum". The British Museum. Retrieved 2022-07-10.
- ^ a b "북한지역정보넷". www.cybernk.net. Retrieved 2022-07-10.
- ^ a b c Condra, Jill (2008). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history. Jill Condra. Westport, Connecticut. p. 223. ISBN 978-0-313-33662-1. OCLC 156808055.
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- ^ a b c d e f g 김 [Kim], 윤정 [Yun-jeong] (2020). "고려후기 사여관복(
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集 安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter. - ^ a b c d e Lee, Junghee. "The Evolution of Koguryo Tomb Murals". eng.buddhapia.com. Archived from the original on 2011-07-19. Retrieved 2011-04-14.
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