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Hanaya Yohei

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
In this Japanese name, the surname is Hanaya.
Portrait of Hanaya Yohei

Hanaya Yohei (華はな屋や 与兵衛よへえ or 花屋はなや 與兵衛よへえ; 1799–1858) was a Japanese restaurateur and chef who is generally credited as the inventor of Tokyo-style (Edomaezushi; 江戸前えどまえ寿司ずし) nigiri sushi at the end of the Edo period. He is also regarded as the inventor of modern sushi that is widely recognized around the world.[1][2][3]

Life

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Hanaya was born in Reiganjima, Edo (present-day Shinkawa, Tokyo).[4] In 1810, he established a sushi restaurant, Hanaya, in Honjo, Edo (present-day Honjo, Tokyo).[5]

Hanaya developed a new type of sushi, nigirizushi, which was different from the already existing oshizushi, in the early Bunsei era (1818-1830).[5]

Sushi at his time was made from freshly captured fish from the nearby Tokyo Bay. This ruled out many of today's popular materials such as salmon roe (ikura; イクラ). Even though Tokyo is a coastal city, food safety was still a concern before the invention of refrigeration. To prevent spoilage, Hanaya either slightly cooked or marinated the fish in soy sauce or vinegar. It was quite reasonable for people to dislike the fatty belly meat of tuna because it would decompose very quickly. Hanaya marinated the lean red meat in soy sauce. Then he served the sliced fish on vinegared rice balls that are large by today's standard. His sushi was totally different from today's "raw fish" stereotype.

Hanaya died at the age of 60 in 1858.[5]

Hanaya's cookery was a departure from Japanese eating habits of the time. In the early years, a chef only made sushi part-time. Then, slowly, inexpensive sushi stands (yatai; 屋台やたい) emerged. After the government outlawed these questionable food stands, sushi restaurants (ryōtei; 料亭りょうてい) became mainstream.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "The Mysteries of Sushi - Part 2: Fast Food". Toyo Keizai. 23 May 2015. Archived from the original on 9 September 2017.
  2. ^ "When Sushi Became a New Fast Food in Edo". Nippon.com. 22 December 2020. Archived from the original on 18 January 2021.
  3. ^ "Sushi". Nihonbashi. Archived from the original on 28 December 2021.
  4. ^ "碑文ひぶん 与兵衛よへえ鮨ずし発祥はっしょうの地ち（墨田すみだ区く教育きょういく委員いいん会かい、2000年ねん3月がつ）". はまだより. 2014-05-02. Archived from the original on 2014-05-02. Retrieved 2014-04-30.
  5. ^ a b c Ueda, Masaaki (2002). Kōdansha Nihon jinmei daijiten. Shuppan Kenkyūjo. Kōdansha. 花屋はなや与兵衛よへえ. ISBN 4-06-210800-3. OCLC 50718841.
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