Yoshiyuki Ogata
![]() Ogata in 2018 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Kurume, Japan | February 4, 1998||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation(s) | Professional sport climber and boulderer | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 171 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Known for | Winner of multiple World Cup medals | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
|
Yoshiyuki Ogata (
Early life and youth competitions
[edit]Born in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture,[6] Ogata began bouldering at age 10 after he saw the sport on television.[7] At age 17, he won the lead competition at the 2015 Japan Youth National Championships,[8] as well as the bouldering competitions at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships[9] and the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships[10] in the Male Youth A (age 15–17) category. He won another bouldering gold medal as well as a combined silver medal at the World Youth Championships in 2017 in the Male Junior (age 17 to 19) category.[11]
Competition climbing
[edit]Ogata began competing in senior competitions at age 16,[7] entering the Chongqing and Laval World Cups in 2014.[1] At age 18, he won the gold medal in men's bouldering event at the 2016 IFSC Climbing Asian Championships, and collected a silver in bouldering and bronze in lead the following year.[1] Ogata won gold at the men's bouldering event at the 2017 World Games, where he qualified as the 2016 Asian champion.[12] He made his first World Cup podium finish with a bronze medal at the Vail World Cup in 2017,.[13] Ogata won his first World Cup event in bouldering at Vail in 2019[2] and won his second at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] At the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Ogata advanced to the men's final in lead, finishing 7th overall.[14] In 2022, Ogata made the finals in all six IFSC World Cup bouldering events, taking home one gold, two silver, and two bronze medals, and winning the overall title.
Rankings
[edit]IFSC Climbing World Cup
[edit]Discipline | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | - | - | - | 20 | 27 | - | - | - | 9 | 7 |
Bouldering | 83 | 40 | 18 | 8 | 8 | 3 | - | 1 | 1 | 6 |
Climbing World Championships
[edit]Youth[1]
Discipline | 2014 Youth A |
2015 Youth A |
2016 Juniors |
2017 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 13 | 7 | - | 1 |
Bouldering | - | 1 | 19 | 1 |
Speed | - | - | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | 2 |
Adult[1]
Discipline | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 31 | - | 7 | 27 |
Bouldering | 15 | 14 | 8 | 7 |
Speed | 110 | - | - | - |
Combined | 29 | - | - | 17 |
World Cup podiums
[edit]Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2021 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2022 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 6 |
2023 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 3 | 4 | 5 | 12 |
See also
[edit]- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f g "YOSHIYUKI OGATA". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 24, 2021.
- ^ a b "History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep". Rock & Ice. June 11, 2019. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ a b Browne, Ken (June 26, 2021). "Janja Garnbret and Team Japan storm to victory at Innsbruck Sport Climbing World Cup". olympics.com. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
- ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved July 16, 2022.
- ^ "
緒方 良行 " (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021. - ^ a b "Friday Feat: One-Pinky Pull-Up". GymClimber. May 7, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ "クライミング・
日本 ユース選手権 2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021. - ^ Murdoch, Shane (August 31, 2015). "Arco 2015, Day Four: Bouldering Results and Canadians Ready for Lead Comp". Gripped. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ "IFSC クライミング・アジアユース
選手権 プトラジャヤ 2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021. - ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 Report". Gripped. August 7, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ "The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017". Planet Mountain. July 26, 2017. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ "Indoor Weekly: Watch Vail World Cup 2017 Highlights". Gripped. June 6, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ^ Houston, Michael (September 21, 2021). "Schubert and Seo win lead golds on final day of IFSC Climbing World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
External links
[edit]- JMSCA profile (in Japanese)
- Living people
- 1998 births
- Japanese rock climbers
- Sportspeople from Fukuoka Prefecture
- People from Kurume
- 21st-century Japanese sportsmen
- World Games bronze medalists for Japan
- World Games medalists in sport climbing
- IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
- Boulder climbers
- Japanese competition climbers
- Medalists at the 2017 World Games
- Medalists at the 2022 World Games
- Climbing biography stubs
- Japanese sportspeople stubs