Gongfu tea

The gongfu tea ceremony or kung fu tea ceremony (Chinese: 工夫くふう茶ちゃ), also known as the Chinese tea ceremony, is a Chinese cultural activity involving the ritualized preparation and presentation of tea. It is probably based on the tea preparation approaches originated in Fujian and Guangdong. The original term gongfu cha (工夫くふう茶ちゃ) literally means "making tea with effort". Sometimes '功いさお' instead of '工こう' is used thus 功夫いさお茶ちゃ. Today, the approach is used popularly by teashops carrying tea of Chinese or Taiwan origins, and by tea connoisseurs as a way to maximize the taste of a tea selection, especially a finer one.

A typical Taiwanese-style gongfu cha setup

Origin

Attention to tea making quality has been a classic Chinese tradition. All teas, loose tea, coarse tea, and powdered tea have long coexisted with the "imperially appointed compressed form". By the end of the 14th century, the more naturalistic "loose leaf" form had become a popular household product and by the Ming era, loose tea was put to imperial use. In Japan, tea production began in the 12th century following Chinese models, and eventually evolved into the Japanese tea ceremony, meant to be exclusive to political and military elites. The related teaware that is the tea pot and later the gaiwan were evolved. It is believed that the gongfu tea preparation approach began only in around the 18th century. Some scholars think that it began in Wuyi in Fujian, where the production of oolong tea for export began; others believe that it was the people in Chaozhou in the Chaoshan area in Guangdong started this particular part of the tea culture.

Oral history from the 1940s still referred to Gongfu Cha as "Chaoshan Gongfu Cha". It is likely that regardless of the earliest incidence of the approach, the place that first successfully integrated it into daily life was Chaoshan area. Chaozhou is recognized by some as the "Capital" of gongfu tea. The way of tea making is evident in all corners of the city. However, the situation was a little different between the 1950s to the 1970s — throughout the Great Leap Forward and Cultural Revolution social unrests in Mainland China, the practice of preparing tea carefully for enjoyment was virtually a crime. On the other hand, it continued to develop in Chinese societies outside of China, most notably Taiwan. That is why today there are two slightly different streams of the gongfu tea approach: the more pragmatic, less equipment-heavy one used by tea hobbyists and the tea trade in the Mainland and Hong Kong, and the more elaborate one used in Taiwan. The latter stream has also become a blueprint for the so-called "gongfu tea ceremony" performance/show, although now various other elements, such as costumes and water-pouring tricks, are integrated in it for added show value.

Chemistry and physics

In essence, what is desired in Gongfu Cha is a brew that tastes good and is satisfying to the soul. Tea masters in China and other Asian tea cultures study for years to perfect this method. However, method alone will not determine whether a great cup of tea will be produced. It has been suggested that the chemistry and physics behind Gongfu Cha are what make this method far superior to any other when brewing Chinese teas. Essentially, two things have to be taken into consideration: chemistry and temperature.

Water chemistry

Water should be given careful consideration when conducting Gongfu Cha. Water which tastes or smells bad will adversely affect the brewed tea. However, distilled or extremely soft water should never be utilized as this form of water lacks minerals, which will negatively affect the flavor of the tea and so can result in a "flat" brew. For these reasons, most tea masters will use a good clean local source of spring water. If this natural spring water is not available, bottled spring water will suffice. Yet high content mineral water also needs to be avoided. Hard water needs to be filtered.

Temperature

During the process of Gongfucha, the tea master will first determine what is the appropriate temperature for the tea being used, in order to extract the essential oils of the tea. An optimal temperature must be reached and maintained. The water temperature depends on the type of tea used.

• 95 °C for Oolong (Chinese: traditional 烏がらす龍りゅう; simplified 乌龙; pinyin: wūlóng) tea
• 100 °C (boiling) for compressed teas, such as Pu-erh tea (Chinese: 普ひろし洱; pinyin: pǔ'ěr)
• Note: Green tea is usually not used for a Gongfu tea ceremony.

The temperature of the water can be determined by timing, as well as the size and the sizzling sound made by the air bubbles in the kettle.

• At 75–85 °C, the bubbles formed are known as "crab eyes" and are about 3 mm in diameter. They are accompanied by loud, rapid sizzling sounds.
• At 90–95 °C, the bubbles, which are now around 8 mm in diameter and accompanied by less frequent sizzling sounds and a lower sizzling pitch, are dubbed "fish eyes".
• When the water is boiling, neither the formation of air bubbles nor sizzling sounds occurs.

At high altitudes water boils at lower temperatures, so the above rules cannot be applied.

Tools and equipment

Below is a list of the main items used in a gongfu tea ceremony in Taiwan, known there as 老ろう人ひと茶ちゃ (Pinyin: Lăorénchá).

1. brewing vessel, Yixing teapot, porcelain teapot, or a covered bowl gaiwan.
2. tea pitcher (chahai), or any matching size decanting vessel, used to ensure the consistency of the flavor of the tea (Chinese: 公おおやけ道みち杯はい, Pinyin: gōng dào bēi)
3. hot water kettle, e.g. an electric kettle
4. brewing tray, or a deep, flat bottom porcelain plate to hold spills (spills are typical)
5. tea towel or tea cloth, usually dark-colored
6. tea spoon (tea pick) for clearing the teapot spout, and clearing tea leaves etc.
7. tea cups (traditionally 3 cups are used in most instances), matching size. Also named Pinming Cup (品しな茗杯）in Chinese. Fragrance smelling cup: is intended to capture the aroma and essence of the brewed tea, and is matched with the Pinming cups.
8. timer
9. strainer, a tea strainer (Chinese: 漏も斗と, Pinyin: lòu dŏu) sometimes built into the tea pitchers
10. tea holder, tea leaf holder for weighing and dispensing, or a wooden tea spoon to measure the amount of tea leaves required (Chinese: 茶ちゃ匙さじ, Pinyin: chá chí)
11. optional: tea basin or bowl used as the receptacle for used tea leaves and refuse water
12. optional: scale
13. optional: kitchen thermometer
14. optional: scent cup (snifter cup) used to appreciate the tea's aroma (Chinese: traditional 聞香こう杯はい, simplified 闻香杯はい, Pinyin wén xiāng bēi)
15. optional: A pair of tongs called "Jiā" (Chinese: 挾はさみ) or "Giab" in both the Chao Zhou and Min Nan dialects.

A tea pet, usually made from the same clay as a Yixing teapot, is fun to have. One kind of "tea pet" is a "tea boy." Prior to the tea ceremony, he is soaked in cold water. Hot water poured over him during the tea ceremony will make him "pee."

Procedures

The ceremony should be carried out in an appropriate space. A table large enough to hold the tea-making utensils, the drip tray, and the water is the minimum necessary. Ideally the surroundings should be peaceful and conducive to relaxation and socialization. Incense, flowers, and low, soft, traditional music will all add to the ambience, as will songbirds.

Preparation

1. The first stage of preparation is known as 溫ゆたか壺つぼ燙杯 (simplified: 温ゆたか壶烫杯はい, Pinyin: wēn hú tàng bēi) literally "warming the pot and heating the cups." At this point the cups and pot are laid on the table. They are then warmed and sterilized with hot water, the excess is then poured away. When pouring from the cups in the Taiwanese Lăorénchá style, the wooden tweezers may be used instead of bare hands.
2. The second stage of the preparation is known as 鑒賞佳けい茗 (simplified: 鉴赏佳けい茗, Pinyin: jiàn shǎng jiā míng), literally "appreciate excellent tea." At this point those who would partake of the tea during the ceremony examine and appreciate its appearance, smell, and its other characteristics.
3. The third stage of the preparation is known as 烏がらす龍りゅう入にゅう宮みや (simplified: 乌龙入にゅう宫, Pinyin: wū lóng rù gōng), "The black dragon enters the palace" (this term in particular is used when Oolong tea is used for the ceremony). The teapot is filled with tea. For a 150 ml tea pot at least 15 grams of tea leaves are used, however depending on the size of the pot and the strength of the tea the pot may be filled between 1/2 and 2/3 full.
4. The leaves are now rinsed using hot water poured from some height above the pot, this is known as 懸かか壺つぼ高だか沖おき (simplified: 悬壶高だか冲, Pinyin: xuán hú gāo chōng), "rinsing from an elevated pot". This is done by putting the teapot into the catching bowl. Water heated to the appropriate temperature for the tea is then poured into the pot until the pot overflows.
5. Any debris or bubbles which form on the surface are then scooped away gently to keep the tea from around the mouth of the pot which is then closed with the lid. This is known as 春風しゅんぷう拂はらい面めん (simplified: 春はる风拂面めん, Pinyin: chūn fēng fú miàn), meaning "the spring wind brushes the surface."
6. At this point opinions differ as to what should be done with the tea. Some suggest that the tea be steeped for a short while, and discarded into the cups (重じゅう洗あらい仙せん顏がお, simplified: 重じゅう洗あらい仙せん颜, Pinyin: chóng xǐ xiān yán), meaning "bathe the immortal twice". This is in order that the temperature inside and outside of the pot is the same. Others recommend immediately pouring the first brew into all of the cups without allowing the tea to steep.

Brewing

1. Customarily this first brew is poured into the cups but is not drunk. This is known as 行雲流水こううんりゅうすい (simplified: 行くだり云うん流水りゅうすい, Pinyin: háng yún líu shǔi), "A row of clouds, running water". It is essentially a slightly extended washing of the leaves.
2. The pot is then refilled with fresh hot water until the water reaches the mouth of the pot. This is known as 再さい注ちゅう清泉きよいずみ (Pinyin: zài zhù qīng quán), "Direct again the pure spring" or 回旋かいせん低てい斟 (Pinyin: húi xuán dī zhēn), meaning "pouring again from a low height." This second term refers to an important principle in the brewing of Chinese tea ceremonially: Gāo chōng dī zhēn (trad.: 高こう沖おき低ひく斟, simp. 高こう冲低斟), "high to rinse, low to pour." This is because in the rinsing the tea is rinsed using the force of water poured from a height, whereas in the brewing water is poured closer to the leaves in order not to force the flavour from the leaves too rapidly.
3. The bubbles which may have formed on the surface are removed using the lid, and the pot is closed. The hot tea from the first brew is then emptied over the teapot's outside. This is known as 刮沫淋蓋 (simplified 刮沫淋盖, Pinyin: guā mò lín gài). Wait for 20 to 50 seconds, depending on the type and quantity of the tea used before beginning to serve the tea.

Serving

1. In most Chinese gongfucha ceremony the tea is poured evenly into the teacups, in a circular manner around the guests. In the Taiwanese style ceremony however, often the tea is first emptied into the tea pitcher (cha hai) before being served to the guests. A quality oolong tea is good for anywhere from 4 to 8 infusions. Some Puerh teas can last for 8 or more infusions. Each subsequent pot follows the same procedure, but requires a slightly longer infusion time.

Aroma appreciation

1. In the Taiwanese style ceremony, at its highest form, the aroma of the tea is enjoyed as well as its taste. In this case, the tea is first poured into the tea jug, and then into scent cups (聞香ぶんこう杯はい), or sniffer cup. This is known as 毆なぐ杯はい沐淋 (simplified: 殴なぐ杯はい沐淋, Pinyin: ōu bēi mù lìn), "bathing the scent cup."
2. The drinking cup is placed upside down over the top of the scent cup and balanced there. This is known as 龍りゅう鳳おおとり呈てい祥さち (simplified: 龙凤呈てい祥さち, Pinyin: lóng fèng chéng xiáng), meaning "The dragon and phoenix in auspicious union." This is a ritualised action, and is viewed by some as a form of prayer for the prosperity, well-being, and happiness of the guests.
3. The two are inverted so that the scent cup is upside down in the drinking cup. This is known as 鯉こい魚ぎょ翻身ほんしん (simplified: 鲤鱼翻身ほんしん, Pinyin: lǐ yú fān shēn), "the carp turns over."
4. The final stage, 敬けい奉たてまつ香こう茗 (Pinyin: jìng fèng xiāng míng), "respectfully receive the fragrant tea," occurs when the scent cup is lifted and the tea is released into the drinking cup. The guest can then enjoy the aroma of the tea from the scent cup before consuming the tea from his drinking cup. In good etiquette the drinker will drink his tea in three sips, no less; the first a small one, the second the main one, and the last an after taste.

End of ceremony

1. The ceremony ends with the used tea leaves being put into a clean bowl for the guests to appreciate the tea in its used form. Good etiquette dictates that the guests should make appropriate compliments regarding the choice of tea.

Cleaning up

Cleaning up is an important step in the ritual.

1. Brewed tea and tea leaves should not remain in the teapot after the ritual. The pot must be cleaned up thoroughly and rinsed with hot tea.
2. Utensils must be sterilized with boiling water.
3. The teapot should be rinsed with hot tea and the outside should be rubbed and polished with a good linen cloth.
4. A clay teapot should never be washed with detergents or soaps.
5. The tea pot must be allowed to dry naturally.
6. The utensils and serving cups should be allowed to air dry on a tea tray.